Flies Pollinate, Too!

Unknown fly nectaring on Hamamelis mollis at a local nursery

Yes, I did say flies! Those pesky, annoying creatures that buzz around our heads and food are excellent pollinators.

Unknown fly nectaring on Hamamelis vernalis

I’ve been hoping to capture at least one photo of a winter pollinator visiting the Hamamelis vernalis at Clay and Limestone. It’s been my quest to discover if there is a specialized pollinator. What a surprise to see flies! Not anything special either. They look like, your regular old houseflies, too. But, there they were on a warm February day, nectaring on (and hopefully carrying a bit of pollen to the next flower) the only blooming plants in my garden~the native witch hazels.

True Flies only have two wings

Dipteras, the two winged insect group named by Aristotle, is large~with over 140,000 species world wide! Although, many members of this group are real pests (gnats midges and mosquitoes), many have ecological and human (medical and economic) importance.* Entomologists can and do spend their entire careers studying one or two families! For today’s post, we’ll just take a superficial look at those critters most likely to visit our gardens! (Forgive me, please, but, I do have to use the word maggot!)

Hover Fly on Gaura

Flies~have a holometabolous life cycle. Which means they have complete metamorphism from egg to larvae/maggot to adult. They live in water, soil, plants, the sea, streams, lake, rivers, animals and even other insects. They are opportunists and will eat almost anything. That’s one of the reasons they are SO important for our gardens…their voracious appetites!

Flower Fly on monarda

My favorite fly pollinators are the Syrphid Flies. I know you’ve noticed them. They are those beautifully patterned critters that we see hovering and darting about the garden. They’re known as Flower Flies in the US and Hover Flies in the UK. They’re stingless bee and wasp mimics, so, you don’t need to be afraid of them. They are excellent pollinators and their larval stage is equally important. They eat aphids, scale and other soft bodied garden pests! If you see Hover Flies hovering and darting about~look nearby for their larvae. (I know, there’s that word again!)

Look for their white, oval eggs, singly or in groups on leaves. They’ll hatch into green, yellow, brown, orange, or white half-inch maggots that look like caterpillars. You might even see them raised up on their hind legs in order to catch and feed on aphids, mealybugs and even some beneficial bugs.

They are beautiful creatures and I am always excited to find them hovering and darting about. Their presence assures me that the garden has a good mixture of plants to attract them and other beneficial insects.

One pair of wings and a honeybee mimic

To attract them to our gardens we can plant a variety of annual, herbs and native perennials. Achilleas, asters, dill, lemon balm, spearmints, monardas, penstemons, veronicas, zinnias, thymes, sedums, sweet alyssums, fennels, buckwheat, and lavenders are just a few of the many plants you can choose to make your garden a haven for all pollinators. (source and list of flowers to plant).

But, back to flies!

Generally speaking~flowers that are pollinated by flies and gnats have similar characteristics. The arum (below) is a perfect example of a flower that has evolved specifically to attract them. Its rotting flesh ‘fragrance’ was wafting across the David-Peece garden during our Austin Spring Fling visit in 2008.

This arum smells like rotting flesh to attract its pollinator flies and beetles!

Characteristics of fly attractive flowers are generally~

• Pale and dull to dark brown or purple
• Sometimes flecked with translucent patches
• Putrid order, like rotting meat, carrion, dung, humus, sap and blood
• Nectar guides not present
• Produce pollen
• Flowers are funnel like or complex traps (source)

True flies on fall blooming Crocus speciosus

Personally, I’ll pass on the exotic and smelly fly magnets! Houseflies, Green Bottle Flies and even Blow Flies are welcome to stop by for a bit of nectar and to pollinate the winter blooming hamamelis. I’ll continue to plant for all visiting pollinators~I pinky swear: to plant a diversity of flowers that bloom from early spring to late fall; to provide water; to leave a bit of bare ground; to plant natives and species when I can; and, to never, ever, ever, use pesticides.

xxoogail

This post is part of a series on native pollinators in the garden~ Earlier posts and their links are listed below for your convenience.

Part I~Now Is The Time To Bee-gin Thinking About Bees ( here)
This Is The Place To Bee ( here)
If You Could Plant Only One Plant In Your Garden~Don’t (here)
Must Bee The Season of The Witch (here)
Go Bare In Your Garden (here)

Other bee posts you might want to read~
Count Yourself Lucky To Have Hoverflies (here)
Bumblebee Hotel (here)
Still Taking Care Of Bzzness (here)
My Sweet Embraceable You (here)

*Oh my~Blowflies are important in forensic science; their maggots are being used in medical research on wounds; and, they’ve also been introduced in a greenhouse experiment to see how well they can actually pollinate.

This post was written by Gail Eichelberger for my blog Clay and Limestone Copyright 2011.This work protected under the Digital Millennium Copyright Act. Please contact me for permission to copy, reproduce, scrape, etc.

Related Posts:

• Spring / Fall Clean Ups

Flies Pollinate, Too!

Unknown fly nectaring on Hamamelis mollis at a local nursery

Yes, I did say flies! Those pesky, annoying creatures that buzz around our heads and food are excellent pollinators.

Unknown fly nectaring on Hamamelis vernalis

I’ve been hoping to capture at least one photo of a winter pollinator visiting the Hamamelis vernalis at Clay and Limestone. It’s been my quest to discover if there is a specialized pollinator. What a surprise to see flies! Not anything special either. They look like, your regular old houseflies, too. But, there they were on a warm February day, nectaring on (and hopefully carrying a bit of pollen to the next flower) the only blooming plants in my garden~the native witch hazels.

True Flies only have two wings

Dipteras, the two winged insect group named by Aristotle, is large~with over 140,000 species world wide! Although, many members of this group are real pests (gnats midges and mosquitoes), many have ecological and human (medical and economic) importance.* Entomologists can and do spend their entire careers studying one or two families! For today’s post, we’ll just take a superficial look at those critters most likely to visit our gardens! (Forgive me, please, but, I do have to use the word maggot!)

Hover Fly on Gaura

Flies~have a holometabolous life cycle. Which means they have complete metamorphism from egg to larvae/maggot to adult. They live in water, soil, plants, the sea, streams, lake, rivers, animals and even other insects. They are opportunists and will eats almost anything. That’s one of the reasons they are SO important for our gardens…their voracious appetites!

Flower Fly on monarda

My favorite fly pollinators are the Syrphid Flies. I know you’ve noticed them. They are those beautifully patterned critters that we see hovering and darting about the garden. They’re known as Flower Flies in the US and Hover Flies in the UK. They’re stingless bee and wasp mimics, so, you don’t need to be afraid of them. They are excellent pollinators and their larval stage is equally important. They eat aphids, scale and other soft bodied garden pests! If you see Hover Flies hovering and darting about~look nearby for their larvae. (I know, there’s that word again!)

Look for their white, oval eggs, singly or in groups on leaves. They’ll hatch into green, yellow, brown, orange, or white half-inch maggots that look like caterpillars. You might even see them raised up on their hind legs in order to catch and feed on aphids, mealybugs and even some beneficial bugs.

They are beautiful creatures and I am always excited to find them hovering and darting about. Their presence assures me that the garden has a good mixture of plants to attract them and other beneficial insects.

One pair of wings and a honeybee mimic

To attract them to our gardens we can plant a variety of annual, herbs and native perennials. Achilleas, asters, dill, lemon balm, spearmints, monardas, penstemons, veronicas, zinnias, thymes, sedums, sweet alyssums, fennels, buckwheat, and lavenders are just a few of the many plants you can choose to make your garden a haven for all pollinators. (source and list of flowers to plant).

But, back to flies!

Generally speaking~flowers that are pollinated by flies and gnats have similar characteristics. The arum (below) is a perfect example of a flower that has evolved specifically to attract them. Its rotting flesh ‘fragrance’ was wafting across the David-Peece garden during our Austin Spring Fling visit in 2008.

This arum smells like rotting flesh to attract its pollinator flies and beetles!

Characteristics of fly attractive flowers are generally~

• Pale and dull to dark brown or purple
• Sometimes flecked with translucent patches
• Putrid order, like rotting meat, carrion, dung, humus, sap and blood
• Nectar guides not present
• Produce pollen
• Flowers are funnel like or complex traps (source)

True flies on fall blooming Crocus speciosus

Personally, I’ll pass on the exotic and smelly fly magnets! Houseflies, Green Bottle Flies and even Blow Flies are welcome to stop by for a bit of nectar and to pollinate the winter blooming hamamelis. I’ll continue to plant for all visiting pollinators~I pinky swear: to plant a diversity of flowers that bloom from early spring to late fall; to provide water; to leave a bit of bare ground; to plant natives and species when I can; and, to never, ever, ever, use pesticides.

xxoogail

This post is part of a series on native pollinators in the garden~ Earlier posts and their links are listed below for your convenience.

Part I~Now Is The Time To Bee-gin Thinking About Bees ( here)
This Is The Place To Bee ( here)
If You Could Plant Only One Plant In Your Garden~Don’t (here)
Must Bee The Season of The Witch (here)
Go Bare In Your Garden (here)

Other bee posts you might want to read~
Count Yourself Lucky To Have Hoverflies (here)
Bumblebee Hotel (here)
Still Taking Care Of Bzzness (here)
My Sweet Embraceable You (here)

*Oh my~Blowflies are important in forensic science; their maggots are being used in medical research on wounds; and, they’ve also been introduced in a greenhouse experiment to see how well they can actually pollinate.

This post was written by Gail Eichelberger for my blog Clay and Limestone Copyright 2011.This work protected under the Digital Millennium Copyright Act. Please contact me for permission to copy, reproduce, scrape, etc.

Related Posts:

• Spring / Fall Clean Ups

Posted by mgervais

I think I could spend hours playing with water on lotus leaves. I’m too young to have memories of playing with drops of mercury, but I imagine the effect is similar, right? I went online to see what…

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• FAQS
• Lawn Care

Walk into any supermarket, hardware, store, or general store and you will usually see shelves loaded with fertilizer, pest control
, pesticides, etc. The list goes on and on. People are, however, focusing more and more on health issues from looking for natural ways to encourage a healthy lawn to washing fruit thoroughly before eating.

How many times have you set your lawnmower at its lowest setting to cut your grass as short as possible? You are doing this for basically two reasons: cutting less often and shaving off those unsightly weeds, right?

Did you know that shorter grass encourages weed growth? If you will adjust your mower blades to around 3 inches and make sure they are sharpened, you will actually discourage weed growth and pests! Instead of raking the grass clippings, leave them unless they are very long. They actually work as a natural fertilizer.

It makes since that the more grass coverage you have, the less weeds there are to deal with. Keeping that in mind in the spring and fall, sprinkle grass seeds liberally on bare areas in your yard, so that you choke out any unwanted weeds. You will need to first loosen the soil and spread some type of organic filler like peat moss. Make sure you walk over the area that you have just seeded to flatten the seeds into the earth. If you know a good rain is on the way, this would be the perfect time to plant and then let the rain wash the seeds into the earth.

If you are having a fungus problem, look in your kitchen cabinet or pantry for the answer. Vinegar has so many uses and killing fungus is one of them. Add about 3 or 4 tablespoons per gallon of water and use a sprayer to cover problem areas. Water your lawn in the early morning hours. If you wait till the cool of the evening, the water will not have the opportunity to go through its natural evaporation process, thus encouraging fungal growth. Another way to control fungus is to apply liquid seaweed. It is chocked full of the nutrients that lawns need. Apply it monthly for the full benefits of this cure-all. It is very inexpensive!

Not sure about the health of your soil? Dig for worms! That’s right! Earth worms are a great indicator of the health of your soil. The general rule is that you should find at least 8 to 10 earthworms in a square foot of soil. Earthworms are natural aerators. They do the work for you!

If your soil seems unhealthy, take it to your local county extension service. Many times you can find help at your local cooperative store, also. If the soil is too acidic, you may need to add lime, another inexpensive treatment. If it is too alkaline, then sulfur may be what you need. Your extension agent can test your soil for you and make recommendations.

Composting is an easy way to harvest more nutrients for your soil, and it is recycling, too! If you have a vegetable garden, use your mower to mulch the left over stalks, plants and bushes. Make sure you save any pea shells or bean shells to throw into the mix. Mow them several times to make the pieces smaller, then leave them in the garden through the winter and let nature do its work! You can add various leftovers from the kitchen such as egg shells, potato and carrot peels, fruit peels and cores, etc.

Before you get ready to work on your lawn in the spring, spread your compost pile out a little and mow over it again. Now, spread your compost over your lawn. Less trash for you, and vitamins for your grass! Make sure to save enough to pile around various plantings that you have added to your lawn and flower gardens.

There are many ways to control those pesky insects that invade your beautiful lawn. One simple way is to combine some dishwasher liquid with water and spray your shrubs and grass that have problem areas. Grubs and other insects hate this simple combination. You can also steep approximately 2 tablespoons of rosemary into a half pint of water for about 20 minutes, let cool, and apply to problem areas. Place birdbaths and birdfeeders in your yard to encourage birds to visit and dine on your area pests.

Some insects are good insects, and you want to attract them. Praying mantis and ladybugs eat the insects that attack your plants and lawn. Refrain from using any type of pesticide so that you encourage these bugs to take up residence in your yard. Various types of flowers such as daisies, marigolds, and sunflowers, and herbs such as dill provide food and a place for the good insects to live and flourish. As you can see, there are many ways to have a beautiful lawn without sacrificing the health of you, your family, and your pets.

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• Weed control tips
• FAQS
• Weeding Your Garden

Research says that chemical fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides used in lawns can be carcinogenic, and increase the presence of harmful nitrates in drinking water wells. An easier healthy alternative is to go organic.

To get the lushest lawn possible, research well on the varieties of grasses that do well in your climate before planting the lawn, and select the right mixture of grasses. Also figure out the watering time required, so that the roots are strong and less vulnerable to disease. Aerate the lawn so that compacted soil is loosened and water does not run off, but soaks into the ground, this will eliminate the need for chemical fertilizers.

Ensure that you do not have a layer of clippings and dead grass more than an inch thick by regular but controlled de-thatching, so that you do not get fungus, and the water reaches the roots. Apply organic fertilizer containing bonemeal, fish emulsion and manure early in summer so that the grass gets time to harden for winter.

Make sure you mow properly using a sharp blade, because dull blades tear the grass leaving them vulnerable to disease, and do not mow down to less than 3 inches in summer. Let the occasional weed hang in there, because going for bust will mean using chemicals.

Use weed control products containing corn gluten meal to prevent weeds. In short, going organic is all about growing wiser, trying to prevent damage before it happens, and growing a healthy lawn without risking family health.

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• Natural lawn care tips: weed and pest removal advice
• FAQS
• Organic Lawn Care

We all know that the real homeowners dream is a lush, green perfect lawn that requires almost no work to maintain and that is cheap to grow. The simplest solution to this problem that fills all the required needs is to grown an organic lawn. The organic lawn is the easiest to maintain, comes with a very low price tag, and is hearty against the effects of nature resulting in a picture perfect yard. When you grow an organic yard you need to monitor the way that you mow the lawn, and how you water if you want that picture perfect yard.

Mowing

Mowing an organic lawn is much different than a normal yard and you will need to use techniques that you aren’t used to in order to get ideal results from your organic lawn. The first major difference with the organic lawn is that you don’t want to cut it as low as you normally would lawn. You should instead set the mower to cut approximately three to four inches bout the ground for the ideal cut. Leaving the organic grass at this length will reduce its chance of diseases and will also allow it to fill in quicker resulting in the lush look.

Another added bonus of cutting your grass three to four inches above ground level is that it doesn’t matter how often you cut your grass. This creates an avenue for you to fight the weeds on your lawn without reducing to the use of pesticides that can damage the natural look of your lawn. By going over your lawn only once a week you will ensure that you never see a weed all summer long. After you have finished cutting the grass you want to make sure that you leave the cut grass where it lies. With organic grass this actually helps your lawn as it creates food for grass to eat and helps recycle nutrients.

Watering

Another major benefit of the organic lawn is that it needs to be watered less often than regular grass. You should only water your organic lawn when it is starting to show signs of thirst including wilting. Another great tactic that you can use to prevent weeds is by using water as a weapon. If you drop at least half an inch of water when you are watering this will make your organic grass stretch its roots deeper into the soil which will eventually kill weeds by preventing them from accessing the moisture in the ground.

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• Natural lawn care tips: weed and pest removal advice
• Weed control tips
• 10 time-saving tips to give your backyard a head start on spring

If you want your garden to provide a sense of peace and tranquility, adding some simple Japanese style landscaping ideas will make your goal easy to accomplish. Whether you have a small patio garden or a huge landscape, you can incorporate Japanese style elements into your garden.

In general, Japanese style gardens do not contains a huge variety of plants or a rainbow of color. They are not perfectly symmetrical, nor lavish. They are, however, elegant and timeless and bring a welcomed break from the hustle and bustle of daily life in the modern world. They are places for meditation, contemplation, and thought. This style of garden is enclosed or screened from the outside world through the use of plants, fences, or berms.

Scale And Perspective

Look at the space you wish to use for your Japanese style garden. Scale and perspective are the main techniques used to create a sense of size, space and distance in the garden. You can achieve this through illusion, adding a false sense of perspective, by planting gradually smaller trees or plants farther from the focal point of the garden. If you have water features in your garden, choose the largest for the foreground. Water fountains or a water fall can be a very affordable way to add a peaceful sound to your Japanese style garden.

Add Japanese lanterns and pagodas to your garden, but be sure they are in proportion to the plants and other elements surrounding them.

Rocks in a Japanese style garden take on special meaning. They aren’t simply rocks or boulders but can be the backbone of your garden, around which other elements will fall into place. They represent islands, mountains, and holy places. A boulder can be partially buried to add mass, height, and a feeling of stability to the Japanese garden. Small stones can be used as the borders for pathways or to create the bottoms of water features. They can be used as stepping stones to actually create a path or to cross a small stream. If used to define a pathway, allow the path to wander rather than going in a straight line.

Sentinel Stone

Another use of stone in the [Japanese] style garden is the sentinel stone. This standing stone is used to symbolize warriors, deities, heroes and guardians. It is usually found at the entrance to a Japanese garden or at a major focal point where its presence will enhance the garden’s atmosphere. This type of stone can even be used in an otherwise flat Japanese landscape.

Choose a few Japanese style elements to include in your garden landscape to provide a peaceful place to sit and relax. An austere garden can easily be converted into a Japanese style garden with very low cost and a huge payoff in enjoyment

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• Natural lawn care tips: weed and pest removal advice
• Weed control tips
• FAQS

Winter Care Tips and Precautions for Pets, People, Plants, and Possessions: Less Money, More Safety

By Vicki McClure Davidson

While it does get cold here in my region of Arizona during the winter, rarely does it get anywhere near freezing, especially during the day. While it doesn’t snow here in the Phoenix area, it does in the higher Arizona mountain regions.

We do get a few frost warnings for nights during December and January. So, the kids and I round up several large towels and old sheets and drape them over all my delicate, heat-loving plants. The next day, we remove them so the sun can warm the plants. That’s a big chunk of my hands-on winter care experience.

For folks in other parts of the country, it’s so much more time-intensive than that. A lot of precautions must be made before the first snow falls and continued thereafter.

Winter care tips to save money and keep your family, pets, home, vehicles, and outdoor plants better protected. | Photo credit: Public Domain Photos

Here are all sorts of inexpensive winterizing tips for dealing with extreme cold, heavy rain, snow, sleet, ice, fog, or blizzards. Many of these winter care tips can be used no matter where you live in the world. By following them, you’ll not only save money by preventing more costly repairs or replacements later, but you and your family will be safer.

Winter Care Hints & Tips

Family and Pets

• To protect your skin, and that of your family’s, from the ravages of winter cold, be sure to drink plenty of water to keep hydrated, always wear gloves when going outside, use plenty of moisturizer, put on protective lip balm, and apply a sunscreen of 15 SPF or more when going out during the day. The sun is still damaging to skin during the winter months, and is even more damaging when reflected off snow or ice. Be sure to put sunscreen on your children’s faces before they charge outside to have a snowball fight with friends. Inexpensive choices to seal in moisture in your face and hands are using a bit of petroleum jelly or baby oil. These work just as well, sometimes better, than pricey cosmetic-company creams. They also act as a block to the dehydrating effects of cold winds.
• If you or a family member is walking in a snowy area that has nearby vehicle traffic, you need to keep warm by dressing in layers, but you must also make sure that your hat or scarf doesn’t prevent you from hearing what’s around you. Snow drifts can act as sound blockers or sound absorbers, muffling the sounds of approaching motor vehicles. Wearing hats, ear muffs, and scarves that cover your ears also can distort or even eliminate these sounds. This is not to suggest that you should forgo wearing head protection when walking, but rather, be aware of the potential dangers they can impose on you and take action to be more aware of your surroundings and vehicles. Dart your eyes back and forth from your path to the street, as you would do from your rear view mirror to your side view mirror when driving your vehicle to continually assess what’s going on around you. If you’re listening to an iPod, turn the volume down. Better still, leave it at home. Being aware is cost-free to keeping you safe.
• Pets should be kept inside, except when taken out for walks and for exercise, when the temperatures outside drop low. However, if keeping your dog or cat inside the entire winter isn’t possible, let them out for only short periods during the day and supervise them whenever possible. If your pet spends a lot of time out in the cold, be aware that Spike or Fluffy will need more food than usual because keeping warm uses up a lot of body energy. If your pet’s water dish is kept outside, check it daily to make certain the water is fresh and not frozen. Use plastic food and water bowls outdoors rather than metal; when the temperature is low, your pet’s tongue can actually stick and freeze to the metal.

A protective coat or sweater for your short-haired dog when out in the bitter cold of winter is a cheap and prudent expense because it will keep him or her protected and more comfortable. | Photo credit: Dave Kellum, Flickr website, Creative Commons

• Short-haired dogs will benefit from wearing a protective doggie sweater or coat when taken for walks or exercising. Limit the time outdoors for older dogs if the temperature is below freezing.
• When on walks, protect your dog’s feet with some kind of waterproof dog booties, especially if you live in a snowy region. Snow can camouflage hidden rocks, sharp edges of broken branches, and other dangerous debris that your dog may step or leap on (especially in snow drifts or piles), necessitating a costly trip to the vet. Also, chemicals or salt used by the city to melt snow can be drying or cause allergic reactions if your dog’s bare feet are exposed to them for any length of time. Slush, icy water, and snow, in addition to it being just plain COLD, will dry out your dog’s foot pads. After each walk, check his or her feet to see if there are any cracks in the pads. A preventative, cheap method to keep the pads hydrated and supple is to apply a cream made for animals, like Bag Balm (helps soothe cuts, scratches, skin irritations, and paw abrasions) or Udder Cream (it’s available at any tack supply) every few days to protect the pads from developing painful cracking and possible bleeding, thus saving on expensive vet visits.
• If your dog is kept outside and you live in a cold region, he or she must have protection from the winter elements. A doghouse or other sleeping area that is outdoors must be dry and draft-free. Check the doghouse for leaks in the roof or cracks or loose boards in the walls; make repairs, if necessary, before winter sets in. The doghouse’s entrance should be covered with waterproof burlap or heavy plastic to keep snow, rain, and wind out. The interior must be large enough to allow the dog to sit and sleep comfortably, but small enough to be able to trap and retain the dog’s body heat. The floor of the doghouse shouldn’t sit on the cold ground. Be sure that it is raised a few inches off the ground. To better insulate it, cover the floor with cedar shavings or straw. The doghouse itself should be turned to face away from the wind—many people forget how frigid it can be with a significant wind chill. But as stated previously, it is much safer and healthier for your dog to be kept in your warm house with you and the family during the bitterly cold months of winter. He or she will be much happier, too.
• A major winter storm can be deadly, particularly if it lasts for several days. To make sure that you have the proper inventory of emergency supplies on hand, click here to go to the American Veterinary Medical Association’s website to read their emergency facts sheet for winter storms. The list is provided in Adobe Acrobat PDF format and provides valuable information not only for the members of your family, but for the family pets as well.

Home/Outdoor Plants/Yard

• Change your home’s furnace filter at the beginning of the fall season to save money. Filthy old furnace filters can block air flow and force the blower to work harder to pull air that’s needed to move the heat throughout your home. A fresh, clean furnace filter allows the air to move through freely. You should check your filter at least once a month and change it every three or four months. To test for replacement: If you hold the filter up to a light and can’t see much light passing through it, it is time for a filter change.
• Check all weatherstripping in your home before cold weather hits and replace if worn or damaged. Cold air seeping in will make your heating costs sky-rocket. For a few dollars of prevention, the savings is significant.
• When shoveling snow, spray nonstick vegetable spray on the snow shovel and the snow will slide off it easily. Be sure to pile all shoveled snow to the right of the driveway so that, later, a snow plow won’t undo your hard work. If you’re no longer in your 20s, there are some precautions you should take when shoveling snow. Make sure that the shovel is the right length. It should let you keep your back straight while you lift. If it’s too short, you’ll have to lean over while shoveling. Too long and the snow feels heavy. Lift small loads of snow, rather than large ones, to protect your back. Bend your knees. Keep your back straight and lift with your legs, not your back. Don’t twist and bend forward. The best time of day to shovel your driveway or sidewalk without hurting your back out is in the afternoon. You’re more likely to rupture a disk in the morning because they fill with fluid while you sleep. Also, the sun melts some of the snow, making it easier to lift. Another note is to step in the direction you’re throwing the snow and take frequent breaks. Gently walk around and straighten a bit to extend your lower back. If you have a history of heart trouble, do not shovel snow unless your doctor gives permission.
• Coating the outside of pipes during winter with WD-40 will help prevent freezing damage or pipe bursts.
• To protect your plants in the yard or garden, lay down layers of wet old newspapers followed by a layer of mulch around the plants. Recycling newspaper in this way is not only frugal, but it will help insulate the roots and keep them from freezing, as will the mulch. Both will help retain heat. The newspaper will also help keep down emerging weeds when spring arrives. Poke several holes in the newspaper before covering with mulch so that water can drain. In regions where freezing overnight temperatures are infrequent, tropical or desert plants need to be protected. Cover with fabric, like sheets, towels, or blankets, or pull container plants under patio roofs or awnings. Cold-sensitive container plants can be brought into the house or garage for protection.
• Some additional pro-active prevention can protect your trees and shrubs. If you live in a region that gets a lot of snow, be sure to gently brush off the branches of the shrubs and trees in your yard. Snow can be extremely heavy. A cubic foot of snow can weigh from seven pounds for snow that is new and dry, up to 30 pounds for old, compacted snow. Rain falling on accumulated snow will add more weight. Granted, small branches likely don’t support a cubic foot of snow, but larger ones with more girth or are close enough to other branches so as to “cradle” a large accumulation, most certainly can. When branches get wet and freeze, they can snap off from the added weight. Dormant plants are especially fragile and brittle, so be gentle and take care when removing snow from the branches.

• Watering your plants before a freeze will protect the plants’ roots from freezing. Water, even when frozen, is warmer than freezing air.

• Spray some WD-40 on the bottom of your garage door to keep it from sticking to the concrete during winter. Other applications that will help include petroleum jelly and baby oil.
• If you have an outdoor fountain, before freezing temperatures hit, be sure to thoroughly drain the fountain and, if possible, cover it to protect it from harsh winter conditions. This will extend the life of it because frozen water expands and can permanently damage the fountain if water is trapped and frozen.
• If you live in a rural area, install snow fences to reduce snow from drifting in roads and paths, which could block access to homes, barns, and animals’ feed and water.

Vehicles

• As winter approaches, inspect the tread depth on your vehicle’s tires. Put a penny headfirst between the treads. If you can see the top of Lincoln’s hair, it’s time to replace the tire. While you’re checking the tires, be sure to do the same with checking your spare tire.
• Check all rubber hoses and belts on your vehicle to be sure that they’re not damaged from the summer heat or old age. Coolant hoses wear from the inside out. Inspect for heavy cracks or chunking in the belts. If necessary, have a professional inspect all the hoses and belts.

There are many inexpensive, preventative steps you can take to protect your car or truck from the devastating, expensive damage of winter. | Photo credit: Ryan Greenberg, Flickr website, Creative Commons

• You can prevent ice from covering your windshields during a storm with these easy (and frugal) measures. If you’re traveling during a storm, once you’ve parked, put a large, flattened piece of cardboard or the floor mats from your car over the windshield, securing them under the wipers. When you’re ready to leave, gently crack the wipers free and remove the covering. Your windshield will be clear and ice-free, without any scraping. Another option to eliminating ice is putting large garbage bags that are taped together across the windshield, closed in the driver and front passenger doors. If you forget to cover your windshield, rather than buy an ice scraper, a heavy, sturdy plastic spatula or old credit card will make for an adequate ice scraper substitute.
• To keep your car or truck door locks from freezing during the winter, spray them with a little squirt of WD-40. Another option, if they should freeze, is to warm the vehicle key with a match or a lighter, then try putting it into the frozen lock, thawing your way in. You’ll have to do this several times. You can also try putting the key in as far as it will go, then burn a piece of twisted paper near the frozen lock and key.
• Check your vehicle’s antifreeze before winter sets in. The best ratio of antifreeze to water is 50/50. After adding any antifreeze to your vehicle, thoroughly clean up any spills. If your cat walks through a small spill of antifreeze and then licks its paws to clean them, that could be enough to kill it. Many animals like the smell and taste of antifreeze. Ingesting even a small amount can be deadly. Store antifreeze in tightly closed containers and store where pets and children cannot get to them.
• You can eliminate foggy windshields and car windows during the winter months. Buy an inexpensive chalkboard eraser and keep it in your vehicle’s glove compartment. When the windows fog up, rub them with the eraser. This method is great, working better than a cloth rag.
• In snowy regions of the country, snow and ice in the roads are melted by using vast quantities of salt. This salt can build-up under your car and create all sorts of havoc, including rust. For a DIY solution to remove the salt and mud from your undercarriage, try this on warm winter days or when the worst of the storm is over. Place a lawn sprinkler underneath the car and run it for half an hour. An easier, but more expensive, option is frequent trips to your local car wash to remove the salt. To get the tracked-in salt out of the car’s carpets and floor mats, wash them with a solution of one part vinegar and two parts water. The vinegar should break down the salty residue.
• A light coating of WD-40 will easily prevent your car’s antenna from freezing.
• Baby oil is a cheap and useful polish for vehicle hub caps, keeping them preserved and shiny. Don’t put too much on, though, as you don’t want them to become dirt magnets. Whatever dirt, mud, or salt does collect should wash off extremely easily.
• Assemble a winter emergency kit for the trunk of your vehicle. It should include a blanket, extra boots and gloves, jumper cables, an ice scraper, windshield washer fluid, a first-aid kit, flares, a small snow shovel, a flashlight, non-clumping kitty litter (for traction, should your vehicle get stuck in the snow), a small container of Vaseline, and bottled water. Tossing in a few packaged energy bars and beef jerky strips wouldn’t hurt, either, should you or your family be incapacitated or stuck for an extended period of time.

Sources:
American Veterinary Medical Association’s website, “Emergency Facts Sheet – Winter Storm,” (www.avma.org/disaster/responseguide/E_winter.pdf).
Henry J. Fishman, M.D., Shoveling Snow Painlessly – It Can Be Done… But Do You Really Want to Do It?, Consumer Affairs website, (www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2007/02/snow.html), February 14, 2007.
Humane Society of the United States website, “Protect Your Pet from Winter’s Woes,” (www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/protect_your_pet_from_winters_woes.html).
Lyken Garner, Anne, “10 Top (Legal) Things to Do if You Find Yourself Left Holding a Bottle of Baby Oil,” (www.gomestic.com/Home/10-Top-Legal-Things-to-Do-If-You-Find-Yourself-Left-Holding-a-Bottle-of-Baby-Oil.185849).
Merel, Marc, Dog Hobbyist website, “Winter Time Warnings: Cold Weather Care for Your Dogs,” (www.doghobbyist.com/articles/DogHobbyist/WinterWarnings.html).
MinnSNOWta website, “Roof Razor,” (www.minnsnowta.com/snowloading.html).
WD-40 website, (www.wd40.com/).
Russell, Ellen, Do It Yourself website, “Winter Car Tips and Tricks for Easier Winter Driving,” (http://www.doityourself.com/stry/winterdrivingtips).

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• Preparing for Winter Storms and Blizzards
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Preparing for Winter Storms and Blizzards

Blizzards are the most dangerous of winter storms. They produce high winds and heavy snow throughout much of the United States from December to March.

They are most common in the northern Great Plains states — South Dakota is sometimes called “the Blizzard State” — but they also occur as far south as Texas and as far east as Maine.

Many blizzard-related deaths involve people who die of hypothermia in their cars, on the street or in wilderness areas. Sadly, most of these deaths could have been avoided with proper preparation. Blizzards also cause countless cases of frostbite, as well as damage to unsupported structures and homes.

Winter Storm Watches and Warnings
If you live in a snow-prone area, pay close attention to weather forecasts and listen for watches and warnings like these:

WINTER STORM WATCH: Severe winter conditions, such as heavy snow or ice, are possible within the next day or two. Prepare now!

WINTER STORM WARNING: Severe winter conditions have begun or are about to begin in your area. Seek shelter!

BLIZZARD WARNING : Snow and strong winds will combine to produce a blinding snow (near zero visibility), deep drifts, and life-threatening wind chill. Seek refuge immediately!

WINTER WEATHER ADVISORY: Winter weather conditions are expected and may be hazardous, especially for motorists.

FROST/FREEZE WARNING : Below freezing temperatures are expected and may cause significant damage to plants, crops, or fruit trees. In areas unaccustomed to freezing temperatures, people who have homes without heat need to take added precautions.

You can check the current weather forecast for your area.

Plan Ahead for Winter Storms

Play it safe by preparing ahead for winter storms and blizzards. Be sure to winterize your manufactured home by following all the tips in our winterizing section.

Remember, these storms can cause loss of electricity, heat, and telephone service and can trap you in your home for a few days. It’s important to have ample supplies on hand in your home:

• Flashlight and extra batteries.
• Battery-powered NOAA weather radio and portable radio to receive emergency information. These may be your only links to the outside.
• Extra food and bottled water. High energy food, such as dried fruit or candy, and canned food requiring no cooking or refrigeration is best.
• Manual can opener.
• Extra medicine and baby items.
• First-aid supplies.
• Heating fuel. Fuel carriers may not reach you for days after a severe winter storm.
• Back-up heating source, such as a fireplace, wood stove, space heater, etc.
• Fire extinguisher and smoke detector.
• Brush up on your fire safety knowledge by visiting our fire safety section.

Be sure to carry a survival kit in your car that contains:

• Cell phone
• Blankets/sleeping bags
• Flashlight with extra batteries
• Knife
• High calorie, non-perishable food
• A can and waterproof matches to melt snow for drinking water
• Sand or cat litter
• Shovel
• Windshield scraper
• Tool kit
• Tow rope
• Jumper cables
• Water container
• Compass
• Road maps
• Extra winter clothes and boots

Also, keep your vehicle’s gas tank full in case you get stranded and to keep the fuel line from freezing.

How to Dress for Winter Weather:

• Wear several layers of loose-fitting, lightweight, warm clothing rather than one layer of heavy clothing.
• Remove a layer or two if necessary to avoid overheating, perspiration, and subsequent chill.
• Make sure outer garments are tightly woven and water-repellent.
• Wear mittens — they are warmer than gloves.
• Wear a hat.
• Cover your mouth with a scarf to protect your lungs from extremely cold air.
• Wear sturdy, waterproof boots in snow or flooding conditions.

If You’re Away From Home When the Storm Hits:

If you’re outside:

• Find a shelter out of the wind. Try to stay dry and cover all exposed parts of your body.
• If you can’t find shelter, prepare a lean-to, windbreak or snow cave for protection from the wind. Build a fire for heat and to attract attention. Place rocks around the fire to absorb and reflect heat.
• Don’t eat snow – it will lower your body temperature. Melt the snow first.

If you’re in a car or truck:

• Pull off the road and turn on your hazard lights.
• Stay inside your vehicle. It’s easy to become disoriented in the wind and snow. Do not set out on foot unless you see a building close by where you know you can take shelter.
• Run the motor about ten minutes each hour for heat.
• Open the window a crack to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning.
• Make sure the exhaust pipe is not blocked by snow.
• Exercise frequently to keep blood circulating and to keep warm, but don’t overexert.
• Huddle with other passengers and use your coat as a blanket.
• In extreme cold, use road maps, seat covers, floor mats, newspapers or extra clothing for covering–anything to provide additional insulation and warmth.

Make yourself visible to rescuers:

• Turn on your dome light at night, but only when running the engine. You don’t want to wear down your battery.
• Tie a distress flag (preferably red) to your antenna or window.
• Raise the hood to indicate trouble after snow stops falling.

Once the blizzard is over, you may need to leave your vehicle and proceed on foot. Follow the road if possible. If you need to walk across open country, use distant points as landmarks to help maintain your sense of direction.

If you’re in your home or a building:

• Stay inside.
• If you must travel, do so during daylight. Don’t travel alone. Stay on main roads, and tell others about your route and schedule.
• Conserve fuel, if necessary, by keeping your house cooler than normal. Temporarily shut off heat to less-used rooms.
• When using alternative heat from a fireplace, wood stove, or space heater, use fire safeguards and properly ventilate.
• If using kerosene heaters, maintain ventilation to avoid buildup of toxic fumes. Keep heaters at least three feet from flammable objects. Refuel kerosene heaters outside.

If there’s no heat:

• Close off unneeded rooms.
• Stuff towels or rags in cracks under doors.
• Cover windows at night.
• Stay nourished:
  • Eat food to provide your body with energy so it can produce its own heat.
  • Keep your body replenished with fluids to prevent dehydration.

After the Blizzard has Passed:

• Look for any damage that may have occurred to your home and make sure water pipes are functioning. Check out the freezing pipes information on this site for help. If there are no other problems, wait for streets and roads to be plowed before you drive anywhere.
• Check on neighbors to see if they need help.
• Pace yourself and rest frequently when shoveling snow — don’t overexert. Shoveling causes many heart attacks, especially in very cold temperatures.

With a little planning and know-how, you can make this winter a safe and warm one for you and your family.

Related Posts:

• Winter Care Tips and Precautions for Pets, People, Plants, and Possessions: Less Money, More Safety
• Spring / Fall Clean Ups
• Winterize Your Second Home or Vacation Home Checklist

After following the steps for preparation of the job adjust the water pressure of your electric pressure washer or gas pressure washer between 1500 to 1800 psi. This should be sufficient to power wash a deck.

* You should work in pendular strokes, as if you were doing low swing with a golf club.
* Keep the jet in motion at all times to avoid marking the surface where you start and stop. If a stain does not come off on the first try, keep passing over it until it dissolves.
* Don’t let the cleaning solution sit for more than 10 to 15 minutes or it will dry and leave residue.
* Rinse with plenty of fresh water from your cold water powerwasher.
* Let your deck dry for 24 hours before applying the sealant.

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