What Does Nitrogen Do For Your Lawn

Author: admin  //  Category: Tips

What Does Nitrogen Do For Your Lawn

If you want your lawn to be green, then you need to give it nitrogen. In fact, nitrogen is the primary element found in most lawn fertilizers. Keep in mind that lawn fertilizer is NOT lawn food. Grass and other plants make their own food (in the form of sugars) through the process of photosynthesis.

Lawn nutrients like potassium, phosphorus and, yes, nitrogen, support the process of photosynthesis.

In short, nitrogen is what makes your grass green, and the greener the grass, the more photosynthesis can occur and the thicker the lawn gets. But be careful!

Too much nitrogen can create big problems for your lawn.

First off, too much nitrogen causes the lawn to overgrow, meaning you may have to cut it two or three times per week. If you don’t, then the turf gets too long and when you do cut, you stress it out. That’s not good.

In addition, with too much nitrogen and too much top growth, the lawn’s root system cannot support the vigor of the plants. If the roots cannot support the top, they get stressed and thin out even more. It’s like a child who eats too much candy and then crashes out to sleep after a couple hours of frenzied energy.

How much nitrogen?

As a basic rule, I recommend 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn in the spring, and another pound in the fall. During the summer you can apply very slow release organics to your grass just to give it a nice, long feeding. Simple!

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How to seed and fill in bare and thin spots in your lawn

Author: admin  //  Category: Tips, Uncategorized

How to seed and fill in bare and thin spots in your lawn

Spring and Fall are the best times to fill in bare and thin spots in your lawn with grass seed. Any area the size of a basketball will probably fill in on it’s own by the end of summer if you fertilize, water and mow properly, but for larger areas, fresh grass seed can help speed up the process. Keep in mind, if you are going to plant grass seed, you will use these tips for large or small areas. First, choose the right seed for your lawn by reading this article.

seed germination ingredients

3 Keys to Growing Grass Seed

  1. Moisture: it seems obvious, but no plant can grow without proper watering. This is especially true with grass seed, as the moisture triggers the actual germination process. The secret here is constant moisture. Allowing the seed to dry out in between waterings will kill it. Grass seed germinates at different rates. Ryegrass sprouts in about 7 days, whereas Bluegrass can take up to 2 weeks … BE PATIENT! :)
  2. Seed-to-soil contact: The seed must be wrapped in soil. The soil beneath is used for rooting, and the soil above supports the young sprout as it reaches for the sky. Soil also retains moisture and heat.
  3. Heat and sunlight: Temperatures must be above 40 degrees at night in order for most grass seed to germinate. Ideally, temps will be in the upper 50s and lower 60s during the day. Sunlight is important because the young seedling needs to create its own food through photosynthesis so it can keep growing. The energy stored in the seed is only enough to give it an initial push.

The pictures below illustrate the seeding process. In this example, I am using Scott’s Tall Fescue blend seed and Scott’s Lawn Soil as a seed covering. Normally, landscapers use a slurry mixture of peat moss and top soil in equal parts to cover the seeds, but Scott’s now sells their “lawn soil” as a seed covering which saves you the hassle of mixing.

Another very good quality grass seed is the Eco Lawn Fescue seed sold online. It is cold hardy and can be grown in sun or shade with outstanding results!

The lawn soil bags are $3.50 each at Menards. One bag is enough to cover an area 3 feet by 3 feet when seeding.

Here are 2 other articles that relate to this one if you care to learn more.

“Grass seed types for your lawn”

“Growing Grass in Heavy Shade”

lawn bare spot

seed in bare area of lawn

cover the seed with soil peat moss mixture

pat soil for good seed-soil contact

finished bare spot seeding

Below are a couple updated pictures taken just 2 weeks after the above pictures. You will see the germination is very favorable.
Keep in mind that quality seed is very important!

bare sport seeding 2 weeks later

bare sport seeding close up

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Why Lawn Aerating is Necessary for a Healthy Lawn

Author: admin  //  Category: Tips

Why Lawn Aerating is Necessary for a Healthy Lawn
By LawnCare.Net

You may have seen “aerating shoes” for sale in the hardware and wondered if they actually work.  The short answer is “not really.”  Do you need to aerate your lawn?  The short answer is “yes!”  There is a right way to aerate and a right time to do it for best results.  Aerating is part of maintaining a healthy lawn.  Here’s how to do it right.

What is Lawn Aerating?

Aerating is the process of removing small plugs of soil from the turf.  Core aerators are the best types of mechanical aerators because they remove the soil, rather than pushing soil back in to the ground.  (That is what those little lawn-aerating shoes do.)  Lawn aeration is one of the keys to healthy lawn maintenance.

How does Aerating help your Lawn?

Plants need oxygen as much as they need carbon dioxide, but they need oxygen in their root areas.  As people walk, play football or practice swinging the golf club on their lawn, they compact the soil, squeezing it together and removing spaces that oxygen normally fills.  Plants use oxygen when they metabolize (break down) the sugar they store from photosynthesis.  Without oxygen for this process, plants will literally starve.  In addition to improving oxygen availability for plants, it also improves life for soil organisms.  Lawn aeration allows water to filter more consistently through soil, and helps reduce problems with thatch.

When to Aerate Your Lawn

Depending upon how much foot traffic the lawn in question gets, you may need to aerate more than once a year.  You always want to aerate when the lawn can grow and heal itself from the process.  Aerating a lawn disrupts plant roots and is stressful to the plants in the beginning.  It is best to aerate in the spring and fall—when the plants are actively growing, and it is not too hot.  Warm season grasses grow most during the hot summer, so aerating during the summer works well for them.  Disrupting the plant roots will interfere with their ability to take up water and recover from the aerating process.  Aerating mid-summer requires more careful observation of moisture levels.

It is not a bad idea to hire a professional with a punch-core aerator to aerate the lawn for you.  Most equipment rental places do not have core-aerators that actually remove the core.  Before the professional arrives, however, you need to do some prep-work.  Mow the lawn to a slightly shorter height and give the lawn at least one inch of water two days prior to aerating.  This will loosen the soil and help the lawn recover.   After aerating, continue giving the lawn 1 inch of water twice a week.

Aerating  your lawn at the right time with the proper equipment can ensure that you have a beautiful yard, every season of the year.

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Maintaining A Compost Heap

Author: admin  //  Category: Home Gardening, Tips

Maintaining A Compost Heap

Many people who maintain gardens have a large amount of organic waste, from grass clippings to leaves and dead plants. Unfortunately, many waste money and time having these wastes transported to a landfill. It isn’t just a waste of good compost; it’s a waste of everything that goes into the process of transporting it (the garbage man’s time, the money you pay for the removal, etc). It is truly a travesty.

All this garbage that people are trying to get rid of can be a better supplement for your garden than any fertilizer or chemical. If you properly facilitate the decomposition of all of the garbage, it will alter chemically until it is in such a state that it can be nothing but beneficial nutrition for other plants. Therefore you can turn all the stuff you would have thrown away into top grade fertilizer for your garden.

Usually compost is maintained in a pile somewhere in your backyard. Usually the thought of a compost heap brings disturbing images to ones mind; heaps of rotten garbage emitting a horrid odor. However, if you maintain it correctly you’ll be able to produce great compost without producing an offensive odor. When I first began my compost pile in an effort to improve environmental health, I made several major errors. These included preventing the pile from the oxygen it truly needed, and keeping it to dry. It ended up decomposing in a very non-beneficial way, and producing an odor so foul that I had government agents knocking at my door.

When you are choosing your spot where you will be putting all of these materials, you should aim for a higher square footage. Having a really deep pile of compost is not a good idea, because generally the deeper sections won’t be exposed to anything that is required for the process to work. It is better to spread it all out over a large area. If you have a shed or a tool shack of some sort, it is a possibility to spread it over the roof (with boards to keep it from falling off, of course). I have seen this done several times, and it helps keep the pile out of the way while still maintaining a large square footage.

A compost heap can consist of any organic garbage from your yard, garden or kitchen. This includes leaves, grass, any leftover food that won’t be eaten, or newspaper (no more than a fifth of your pile should consist of newspaper, due to it having a harder time composting with the rest of the materials). Usually if you have a barrel devoted to storing all of these things, it will fill up within several weeks. It is quite easy to obtain compost, but the hard part truly comes in getting it to compost.

After you have begun to get a large assortment of materials in your compost heap, you should moisten the whole pile. This encourages the process of composting. Also chop every element of the pile into the smallest pieces possible. As the materials start to compress and meld together as they decompose, frequently head outside and aerate the pile. You can use a shovel to mix it all up, or an aeration tool to poke dozens of tiny holes into it. Doing this will increase the oxygen flow to each part of the pile, and oxygen is required for any decomposition to take place.

If maintaining a compost pile sounds like something that would interest you, start considering the different placement options. The hardest part about maintaining a pile is choosing a spot that provides enough square footage without intruding on the rest of your yard or garden. While usually you can prevent the horrible odors that most people associate with compost heaps, it’s still not a pleasant thing to have to look at whenever you go for a walk in your garden.

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