Sodding a New Lawn

You may have heard the term “instant lawn” and that’s what sodding a lawn is all about. Sod gives you a quick, yet more costly way to install a lawn, than seeding. Most sod farms in the central to northeastern US grow Kentucky Bluegrass sod.

Sod is sold by the square yard, and the descriptive term is usually shortened to a “yard” of sod. One square yard of sod is 6-feet long by 18-inches wide, totaling 9 square feet. To calculate how many yards of sod needed for a given area, take the square footage and divide by nine.

Calculating how much sod you need
Example: Area to be sodded is 9′ x 10′ = 90 sq ft.
90 square feet ÷ 9 = 10 yards of sod

Sod shipment
A pallet of sod usually contains 50 yards. Sod dealers will charge you a deposit on their pallets since they must be returned to the sod farm for future use.

Don’t leave sod stacked on pallets for more than 24 to 48 hours at the most, since the sod will “heat up” and become damaged. Therefore, have your lawn area ready to sod before your shipment arrives.

Sod pieces should be laid close together to avoid any gaps — the edges should be pushed together. Don’t stretch the sod — stretched out sod pieces will shrink and create gaps between pieces of sod. Exposed edges, especially if there are any gaps, should be covered with topsoil to prevent drying-out.

Beginning row of sod has been laid

Freshly laid sod should be thoroughly watered-in shortly after it’s installed. Continue watering frequently for the first weeks while the sod knits down. Some recommendations call for rolling newly laid sod a few days after it’s installed, with a lawn roller, to remove any air pockets.

Northern sod consists mostly of Kentucky Bluegrass, which is a thatch producer. Therefore, core aerate the sod once or twice a year once it is rooted-in and well established. Dethatch as needed when thatch levels are ½-inch or more. Bluegrass sod should be mowed at a 2-½” height.

Sod laying tips for beginners:

• Leave the soil grade one-inch lower along sidewalks and pavement to allow for the thickness of the sod piece.
• Sod is “graded” so buy the best grade available (#1). When your sod arrives piled-up on a pallet, lay it as soon as you can.  Keep palletized sod covered with a lightweight perforated tarp — to help keep the wind and sun off — until you get it installed.
• Don’t stretch sod while laying it – push it together – keeping the seams butted together as tightly as possible. Fill any edge gaps with screened topsoil to prevent the edges from drying. Exposed edges will dry out and brown.
• Cut sod with a sharp knife, hatchet or gardening spade, but watch your fingers!
• Watering is very important — begin right away by watering sod thoroughly. Water often (every day or two) to encourage rooting. Pay close attention to watering pavement edges since they will dry out first.

Instant lawn!

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• How to seed and fill in bare and thin spots in your lawn
• Proper Leaf Cleanup

When you put a pool in your back yard, it already looks nice. The truth is, you don’t have to do very much to it to make it look nice. As long as you keep it clean, having a pool makes your backyard look great! However, you can do much more to make it look even better so that when people come over, their jaws drop. The best thing that you can do to better spruce up your pool is to add some swimming pool landscaping.
Swimming pool landscaping makes your backyard look like a spot straight out of paradise. Whenever you have a pool party or just have a few guests over for drinks, they will undoubtedly remark on your swimming-pool landscaping. That’s because not only does your backyard look great because you have a pool, the landscaping makes it look so much better.
Swimming-pool landscaping doesn’t just have to mean putting a bunch of flowers in the ground. Swimming pool landscaping can include a deck, trees, flowers and much more. You can find a pool landscaping business to do the landscaping for you or you can do it yourself. You’ll definitely save money doing your swimming pool landscaping yourself, all that money in labor can quickly add up, and many gardening stores will sell you everything you need to make your backyard and pool look great.

Plan Your Landscaping Before You Break Ground
If you are going to do the pool landscaping yourself, you should first do your homework and know what you’re doing. You can’t just plant a bunch of flowers and tell everyone it’s landscaping. Your landscaping should be planned out so that you don’t get overcrowding, too much spacing or, worse, you don’t want an ugly yard.
Ask plenty of questions from those in the know or do an internet search to educate yourself as much as possible in the correct way to apply pool landscaping. You can make patters and get complicated with it or you can go simple, it all depends on what you want to do and how much you can afford. Ask around, shop around for the best deals and you can get the best looking backyard in the neighborhood.
Swimming pool landscaping will truly make a difference in how your backyard and your pool looks.
A wealth of information about this type of landscaping can be found through a number of locations:

• 1) The Internet – A favorite search engine
• 2) The Library – Don’t forget about free books!
• 3) A Bookstore – Again, books are full of useful information.
• 4) A Home And Garden Shop – Ask the workers, look at the supplies, read their books
• 5) Ask your people in your neighborhood

Related Posts:

• Proper Leaf Cleanup
• Techniques To A Great Looking, Low Maintenance Lawn Connecticut
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Winter Care Tips and Precautions for Pets, People, Plants, and Possessions: Less Money, More Safety

By Vicki McClure Davidson

While it does get cold here in my region of Arizona during the winter, rarely does it get anywhere near freezing, especially during the day. While it doesn’t snow here in the Phoenix area, it does in the higher Arizona mountain regions.

We do get a few frost warnings for nights during December and January. So, the kids and I round up several large towels and old sheets and drape them over all my delicate, heat-loving plants. The next day, we remove them so the sun can warm the plants. That’s a big chunk of my hands-on winter care experience.

For folks in other parts of the country, it’s so much more time-intensive than that. A lot of precautions must be made before the first snow falls and continued thereafter.

Winter care tips to save money and keep your family, pets, home, vehicles, and outdoor plants better protected. | Photo credit: Public Domain Photos

Here are all sorts of inexpensive winterizing tips for dealing with extreme cold, heavy rain, snow, sleet, ice, fog, or blizzards. Many of these winter care tips can be used no matter where you live in the world. By following them, you’ll not only save money by preventing more costly repairs or replacements later, but you and your family will be safer.

Winter Care Hints & Tips

Family and Pets

• To protect your skin, and that of your family’s, from the ravages of winter cold, be sure to drink plenty of water to keep hydrated, always wear gloves when going outside, use plenty of moisturizer, put on protective lip balm, and apply a sunscreen of 15 SPF or more when going out during the day. The sun is still damaging to skin during the winter months, and is even more damaging when reflected off snow or ice. Be sure to put sunscreen on your children’s faces before they charge outside to have a snowball fight with friends. Inexpensive choices to seal in moisture in your face and hands are using a bit of petroleum jelly or baby oil. These work just as well, sometimes better, than pricey cosmetic-company creams. They also act as a block to the dehydrating effects of cold winds.
• If you or a family member is walking in a snowy area that has nearby vehicle traffic, you need to keep warm by dressing in layers, but you must also make sure that your hat or scarf doesn’t prevent you from hearing what’s around you. Snow drifts can act as sound blockers or sound absorbers, muffling the sounds of approaching motor vehicles. Wearing hats, ear muffs, and scarves that cover your ears also can distort or even eliminate these sounds. This is not to suggest that you should forgo wearing head protection when walking, but rather, be aware of the potential dangers they can impose on you and take action to be more aware of your surroundings and vehicles. Dart your eyes back and forth from your path to the street, as you would do from your rear view mirror to your side view mirror when driving your vehicle to continually assess what’s going on around you. If you’re listening to an iPod, turn the volume down. Better still, leave it at home. Being aware is cost-free to keeping you safe.
• Pets should be kept inside, except when taken out for walks and for exercise, when the temperatures outside drop low. However, if keeping your dog or cat inside the entire winter isn’t possible, let them out for only short periods during the day and supervise them whenever possible. If your pet spends a lot of time out in the cold, be aware that Spike or Fluffy will need more food than usual because keeping warm uses up a lot of body energy. If your pet’s water dish is kept outside, check it daily to make certain the water is fresh and not frozen. Use plastic food and water bowls outdoors rather than metal; when the temperature is low, your pet’s tongue can actually stick and freeze to the metal.

A protective coat or sweater for your short-haired dog when out in the bitter cold of winter is a cheap and prudent expense because it will keep him or her protected and more comfortable. | Photo credit: Dave Kellum, Flickr website, Creative Commons

• Short-haired dogs will benefit from wearing a protective doggie sweater or coat when taken for walks or exercising. Limit the time outdoors for older dogs if the temperature is below freezing.
• When on walks, protect your dog’s feet with some kind of waterproof dog booties, especially if you live in a snowy region. Snow can camouflage hidden rocks, sharp edges of broken branches, and other dangerous debris that your dog may step or leap on (especially in snow drifts or piles), necessitating a costly trip to the vet. Also, chemicals or salt used by the city to melt snow can be drying or cause allergic reactions if your dog’s bare feet are exposed to them for any length of time. Slush, icy water, and snow, in addition to it being just plain COLD, will dry out your dog’s foot pads. After each walk, check his or her feet to see if there are any cracks in the pads. A preventative, cheap method to keep the pads hydrated and supple is to apply a cream made for animals, like Bag Balm (helps soothe cuts, scratches, skin irritations, and paw abrasions) or Udder Cream (it’s available at any tack supply) every few days to protect the pads from developing painful cracking and possible bleeding, thus saving on expensive vet visits.
• If your dog is kept outside and you live in a cold region, he or she must have protection from the winter elements. A doghouse or other sleeping area that is outdoors must be dry and draft-free. Check the doghouse for leaks in the roof or cracks or loose boards in the walls; make repairs, if necessary, before winter sets in. The doghouse’s entrance should be covered with waterproof burlap or heavy plastic to keep snow, rain, and wind out. The interior must be large enough to allow the dog to sit and sleep comfortably, but small enough to be able to trap and retain the dog’s body heat. The floor of the doghouse shouldn’t sit on the cold ground. Be sure that it is raised a few inches off the ground. To better insulate it, cover the floor with cedar shavings or straw. The doghouse itself should be turned to face away from the wind—many people forget how frigid it can be with a significant wind chill. But as stated previously, it is much safer and healthier for your dog to be kept in your warm house with you and the family during the bitterly cold months of winter. He or she will be much happier, too.
• A major winter storm can be deadly, particularly if it lasts for several days. To make sure that you have the proper inventory of emergency supplies on hand, click here to go to the American Veterinary Medical Association’s website to read their emergency facts sheet for winter storms. The list is provided in Adobe Acrobat PDF format and provides valuable information not only for the members of your family, but for the family pets as well.

Home/Outdoor Plants/Yard

• Change your home’s furnace filter at the beginning of the fall season to save money. Filthy old furnace filters can block air flow and force the blower to work harder to pull air that’s needed to move the heat throughout your home. A fresh, clean furnace filter allows the air to move through freely. You should check your filter at least once a month and change it every three or four months. To test for replacement: If you hold the filter up to a light and can’t see much light passing through it, it is time for a filter change.
• Check all weatherstripping in your home before cold weather hits and replace if worn or damaged. Cold air seeping in will make your heating costs sky-rocket. For a few dollars of prevention, the savings is significant.
• When shoveling snow, spray nonstick vegetable spray on the snow shovel and the snow will slide off it easily. Be sure to pile all shoveled snow to the right of the driveway so that, later, a snow plow won’t undo your hard work. If you’re no longer in your 20s, there are some precautions you should take when shoveling snow. Make sure that the shovel is the right length. It should let you keep your back straight while you lift. If it’s too short, you’ll have to lean over while shoveling. Too long and the snow feels heavy. Lift small loads of snow, rather than large ones, to protect your back. Bend your knees. Keep your back straight and lift with your legs, not your back. Don’t twist and bend forward. The best time of day to shovel your driveway or sidewalk without hurting your back out is in the afternoon. You’re more likely to rupture a disk in the morning because they fill with fluid while you sleep. Also, the sun melts some of the snow, making it easier to lift. Another note is to step in the direction you’re throwing the snow and take frequent breaks. Gently walk around and straighten a bit to extend your lower back. If you have a history of heart trouble, do not shovel snow unless your doctor gives permission.
• Coating the outside of pipes during winter with WD-40 will help prevent freezing damage or pipe bursts.
• To protect your plants in the yard or garden, lay down layers of wet old newspapers followed by a layer of mulch around the plants. Recycling newspaper in this way is not only frugal, but it will help insulate the roots and keep them from freezing, as will the mulch. Both will help retain heat. The newspaper will also help keep down emerging weeds when spring arrives. Poke several holes in the newspaper before covering with mulch so that water can drain. In regions where freezing overnight temperatures are infrequent, tropical or desert plants need to be protected. Cover with fabric, like sheets, towels, or blankets, or pull container plants under patio roofs or awnings. Cold-sensitive container plants can be brought into the house or garage for protection.
• Some additional pro-active prevention can protect your trees and shrubs. If you live in a region that gets a lot of snow, be sure to gently brush off the branches of the shrubs and trees in your yard. Snow can be extremely heavy. A cubic foot of snow can weigh from seven pounds for snow that is new and dry, up to 30 pounds for old, compacted snow. Rain falling on accumulated snow will add more weight. Granted, small branches likely don’t support a cubic foot of snow, but larger ones with more girth or are close enough to other branches so as to “cradle” a large accumulation, most certainly can. When branches get wet and freeze, they can snap off from the added weight. Dormant plants are especially fragile and brittle, so be gentle and take care when removing snow from the branches.

• Watering your plants before a freeze will protect the plants’ roots from freezing. Water, even when frozen, is warmer than freezing air.

• Spray some WD-40 on the bottom of your garage door to keep it from sticking to the concrete during winter. Other applications that will help include petroleum jelly and baby oil.
• If you have an outdoor fountain, before freezing temperatures hit, be sure to thoroughly drain the fountain and, if possible, cover it to protect it from harsh winter conditions. This will extend the life of it because frozen water expands and can permanently damage the fountain if water is trapped and frozen.
• If you live in a rural area, install snow fences to reduce snow from drifting in roads and paths, which could block access to homes, barns, and animals’ feed and water.

Vehicles

• As winter approaches, inspect the tread depth on your vehicle’s tires. Put a penny headfirst between the treads. If you can see the top of Lincoln’s hair, it’s time to replace the tire. While you’re checking the tires, be sure to do the same with checking your spare tire.
• Check all rubber hoses and belts on your vehicle to be sure that they’re not damaged from the summer heat or old age. Coolant hoses wear from the inside out. Inspect for heavy cracks or chunking in the belts. If necessary, have a professional inspect all the hoses and belts.

There are many inexpensive, preventative steps you can take to protect your car or truck from the devastating, expensive damage of winter. | Photo credit: Ryan Greenberg, Flickr website, Creative Commons

• You can prevent ice from covering your windshields during a storm with these easy (and frugal) measures. If you’re traveling during a storm, once you’ve parked, put a large, flattened piece of cardboard or the floor mats from your car over the windshield, securing them under the wipers. When you’re ready to leave, gently crack the wipers free and remove the covering. Your windshield will be clear and ice-free, without any scraping. Another option to eliminating ice is putting large garbage bags that are taped together across the windshield, closed in the driver and front passenger doors. If you forget to cover your windshield, rather than buy an ice scraper, a heavy, sturdy plastic spatula or old credit card will make for an adequate ice scraper substitute.
• To keep your car or truck door locks from freezing during the winter, spray them with a little squirt of WD-40. Another option, if they should freeze, is to warm the vehicle key with a match or a lighter, then try putting it into the frozen lock, thawing your way in. You’ll have to do this several times. You can also try putting the key in as far as it will go, then burn a piece of twisted paper near the frozen lock and key.
• Check your vehicle’s antifreeze before winter sets in. The best ratio of antifreeze to water is 50/50. After adding any antifreeze to your vehicle, thoroughly clean up any spills. If your cat walks through a small spill of antifreeze and then licks its paws to clean them, that could be enough to kill it. Many animals like the smell and taste of antifreeze. Ingesting even a small amount can be deadly. Store antifreeze in tightly closed containers and store where pets and children cannot get to them.
• You can eliminate foggy windshields and car windows during the winter months. Buy an inexpensive chalkboard eraser and keep it in your vehicle’s glove compartment. When the windows fog up, rub them with the eraser. This method is great, working better than a cloth rag.
• In snowy regions of the country, snow and ice in the roads are melted by using vast quantities of salt. This salt can build-up under your car and create all sorts of havoc, including rust. For a DIY solution to remove the salt and mud from your undercarriage, try this on warm winter days or when the worst of the storm is over. Place a lawn sprinkler underneath the car and run it for half an hour. An easier, but more expensive, option is frequent trips to your local car wash to remove the salt. To get the tracked-in salt out of the car’s carpets and floor mats, wash them with a solution of one part vinegar and two parts water. The vinegar should break down the salty residue.
• A light coating of WD-40 will easily prevent your car’s antenna from freezing.
• Baby oil is a cheap and useful polish for vehicle hub caps, keeping them preserved and shiny. Don’t put too much on, though, as you don’t want them to become dirt magnets. Whatever dirt, mud, or salt does collect should wash off extremely easily.
• Assemble a winter emergency kit for the trunk of your vehicle. It should include a blanket, extra boots and gloves, jumper cables, an ice scraper, windshield washer fluid, a first-aid kit, flares, a small snow shovel, a flashlight, non-clumping kitty litter (for traction, should your vehicle get stuck in the snow), a small container of Vaseline, and bottled water. Tossing in a few packaged energy bars and beef jerky strips wouldn’t hurt, either, should you or your family be incapacitated or stuck for an extended period of time.

Sources:
American Veterinary Medical Association’s website, “Emergency Facts Sheet – Winter Storm,” (www.avma.org/disaster/responseguide/E_winter.pdf).
Henry J. Fishman, M.D., Shoveling Snow Painlessly – It Can Be Done… But Do You Really Want to Do It?, Consumer Affairs website, (www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2007/02/snow.html), February 14, 2007.
Humane Society of the United States website, “Protect Your Pet from Winter’s Woes,” (www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/protect_your_pet_from_winters_woes.html).
Lyken Garner, Anne, “10 Top (Legal) Things to Do if You Find Yourself Left Holding a Bottle of Baby Oil,” (www.gomestic.com/Home/10-Top-Legal-Things-to-Do-If-You-Find-Yourself-Left-Holding-a-Bottle-of-Baby-Oil.185849).
Merel, Marc, Dog Hobbyist website, “Winter Time Warnings: Cold Weather Care for Your Dogs,” (www.doghobbyist.com/articles/DogHobbyist/WinterWarnings.html).
MinnSNOWta website, “Roof Razor,” (www.minnsnowta.com/snowloading.html).
WD-40 website, (www.wd40.com/).
Russell, Ellen, Do It Yourself website, “Winter Car Tips and Tricks for Easier Winter Driving,” (http://www.doityourself.com/stry/winterdrivingtips).

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That load of snow in your driveway may be getting to you, but before you put your snowblower into action, make sure you’re really using it properly and safely. You probably have a healthy respect for your lawn mower and weed-whacker, and their ability to do real harm. Don’t think that your snowblower is more innocuous just because it throws the fluffy stuff around instead of slicing plants
away from the earth.

First rule: Don’t drink alcohol and operate a snowblower. Any time you dull your reaction time and impair your judgment, the last thing you want to do is operate any kind of machinery that could severely injure you or someone else.

Second, be careful where you aim that thing. If the snow is shooting toward your house, you could be looking at damage to your siding and windows. If you aren’t exactly sure where Patches the Cat ran off to, get her into the house first, unless you want to risk stunning her and burying her under a bunch of snow. Remember, not all snow is light and fluffy. Also, if there are heavier objects in the snow, like rocks or ice chunks, they will be flung farther, and perhaps faster, than snow. So, thoroughly inspect the area before you get out the snowblower. In fact, if you can survey the area before the snow covers the ground, so much the better.

Third, watch your fingers and other important parts you might need later. The American Academy of Orthopedic Surgeons reports that several thousand people are treated each year in emergency rooms thanks to incidents with snowblowers and snowthrowers. Two-thirds of snowblower injuries involve the fingers, and of all the various consumer home and yard products, snowblowers are one of the top causes of finger amputations. Most injuries occur when operators attempt to clear the auger or the discharge chute with their hands. Use a stick or broom handle to clear away debris in the machine. Remember that the impeller blades may still be rotating for a time even after the machine is turned off. You should wait AT LEAST five seconds after turning the machine off before trying to clear any jams, even though you’ll be using a stick. You don’t want spinning blades to grab onto something you’re holding tightly.

Fourth, make sure you leave all the safety devices, like shields, guards and switches, on the machine. Customize your car, not your snowblower. For that matter, protect your own body by wearing gloves, long pants, goggles and boots. For one thing, it’s cold out there. For another, you want to keep your body parts intact, remember?

Fifth, if you have a gas-powered snowblower, fuel it up before you start using it. Never add fuel while it’s running or still hot from recent use. If it’s an electrical snowblower, make sure the cord doesn’t get tangled or snagged in any moving parts; electrocution is dangerous, not invigorating. Don’t touch the engine cowling while it’s still hot.

Sixth, keep the kids away from the snowblower. Around the age of 15, it’s probably OK to start introducing them to safe use of a snowblower. And make sure you supervise them until you’re sure they know what they are doing.

Seventh, don’t leave the machine unattended without shutting it off first. You don’t want the snowblower going off on its own, and you don’t want kids or pets to get caught up in it when you’re out of sight or out of earshot.

Finally (and maybe this should have been rule number one, but it should be obvious), read the user’s manual for your snowblower before you use it. No one’s going to respect you more because you figured it out on your own, particularly if the result is a couple missing fingers and a family pet that’s still reeling from that hunk of ice you flung at it.

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Proper Leaf Cleanup

Trees are beautiful because of their leaves, but it is inevitable that leaves fall. Historically, homeowners have raked up the leaves, bagged them and thrown them out with the garbage. Now, that is no longer possible.

We need to remember that eons ago, no one raked leaves. Before people stepped in. leaves fell to the forest floor where they mixed with the twigs and were stirred up by small animals. They provided natural mulch in the winter and then broke down, enriching the soil and fertilizing the trees the rest of the year. We need to take a cue from nature and use leaves in our yards as much as possible.

Different parts of your landscape have different needs. You can use leaves all over your yard, but there are some inappropriate places to put them as well.

If you are trying to grow grass on your lawn, allowing the leaves to remain where they fall is not practical. The weight of the wet leaves can suffocate grass and moisture will build up under the leaves and cause a host of fungal diseases. If you have a mulching lawn mower, use it to cut the grass and chop the leaves at the same time. But, if you end up with more than one-fourth to three-eights inch on your lawn, it’s time to go to Plan B.

Put the bagger on your lawn mower and collect the chopped leaves and grass clippings. Then, place them around your shrubs for winterizing mulch. In the past, I didn’t like to recommend using leaves as mulch because they tended to compress and mat down, but when they’re chopped, they tend to loft up slightly. This allows air circulation and prevents them from compacting as quickly into an imperious layer that limits water and air from reaching plant roots. Chopped leaves will also biodegrade more rapidly.

If you mulch your shrubs and still have leaves left, put a four inch layer over your garden and spade it under. This will provide nutrients for next growing season. You can do the same in flowerbeds.

For areas of ground cover, don’t try to remove all leaves. Allowing some to work down into the soil will add nutrients to the soil in these beds as well. Now, don’t allow the entire tree to shed all its leaves on one bed of ground cover. The plants may suffocate and dies. For these areas, I like to use an electric or gas powered vacuum-type leaf remover and take most of the leaves from the bed without having to continually stomp through it or damage plants with a rake.

If you still have some leaves left, add them to your compost pile. Don’t forget to turn it. If you have children, you might want to leave one big pile of leaves in the yard until it really gets cold. Leaf piles, as you may remember, are great for jumping in, throwing around and just generally having a lot of fun with.

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After following the steps for preparation of the job adjust the water pressure of your electric pressure washer or gas pressure washer between 1500 to 1800 psi. This should be sufficient to power wash a deck.

* You should work in pendular strokes, as if you were doing low swing with a golf club.
* Keep the jet in motion at all times to avoid marking the surface where you start and stop. If a stain does not come off on the first try, keep passing over it until it dissolves.
* Don’t let the cleaning solution sit for more than 10 to 15 minutes or it will dry and leave residue.
* Rinse with plenty of fresh water from your cold water powerwasher.
* Let your deck dry for 24 hours before applying the sealant.

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10 time-saving tips to give your backyard a head start on spring

(ARA) – Aaaah, autumn. The kids are headed back to school, the leaves are turning, and a chill is in the air. If you’re like most homeowners, fall also means an opportunity to spruce up your yard and cut down on the work you’ll need to do when the weather turns warm again.

It doesn’t matter if you’re a seasoned landscape professional or somebody who just wants their yard to look as good as it can with as little work as possible, everyone can benefit from backyard fall cleanup, says Michael Miller, president of Minnesota-based backyard tool manufacturer Hound Dog Products. “A little bit of work in the fall will really pay off when spring rolls around,” he says.

Miller offers 10 tips that the professionals use to ensure a successful backyard fall cleanup effort – and to get a head start on next year’s growing season.

• Rake those leaves. Once the snow flies, an unraked layer of leaves can get matted down over the turf and smother it all winter long. Raking or using a mulching mower in the fall helps avoid dead patches in the spring. But don’t worry about getting every last leaf, especially in the garden. They help insulate plants, and as they decompose, they provide valuable nutrients.
• Feed the grass. Fertilizing in the fall is like a day at the spa for your lawn. Using a slow-release fertilizer allows the grass to soak up nutrients and – just as important – spend the cool days and nights of autumn recovering from summer heat and stress. And building a healthy, rejuvenated lawn is one of the best ways to protect against heat, cold, drought, insects and other stresses.
• Weed all about it. Weeding in the fall is probably the most valuable thing you can do to prepare for spring, and it’s one that many people overlook. The good news: Pulling weeds used to be a backbreaking chore, but tools like the Weed Hound have come a long way from the tiny weeding forks of “the good old days.” There’s no reason to get down on your hands and knees and gouge at the turf. All you do is place the tool over the weed, step lightly on the footrest, and pull.
• Pick up the poop. When the snow melts next spring, the last thing you want to see on your lawn is pet waste. Fall is the perfect time to get out there and clean up Rover’s little leftovers. Don’t look forward to getting on your hands and knees? Hire a neighborhood kid to do the dirty work, or invest in a long-handled pooper scooper.
• Remove thatch build-up. A build-up of aboveground roots called thatch prevents sunlight, oxygen and moisture from getting to the nutrient-hungry soil below. But it’s easy to remove, especially if you don’t wait until it overwhelms the yard. Just go at the yard with a dethatching rake in early fall, or for an easier – but more expensive – option, rent a power dethatcher.
• Aerate. Heavy use throughout the summer can cause soil to become compacted. Perforating your lawn with small holes helps reduce compaction and lets water, air and fertilizer get down to the soil, which strengthens the grass plant’s root structure. For smaller yards, a manual aerating tool that removes plugs from the turf while you step should be just fine. If you’ve got a larger yard, consider renting a power aerator.
• Water trees and shrubs. Dehydration during the colder months is an all-too-common cause of tree damage, but it’s easily preventable. To sustain them over the long winter, it’s important to give trees a drink before putting them to bed. After they go fully dormant – but before the ground freezes – use a soaker hose or root irrigator to water them thoroughly.
• Clean out your garden. Fruits and vegetables left in the garden can rot all winter long, and provide a comfy home for insect eggs. Gross? Not as gross as they’ll be in the spring. Now’s the time to get rid of diseased plants, too, but keep them out of the compost pile so the problem doesn’t spread to the rest of your garden next year.
• Plant spring bulbs. Fall is not all about closing up shop. It’s also the perfect time to plant spring flowering bulbs like daffodils and tulips. But pay attention to the weather in your area; planting too early can cause bulbs to sprout before winter, and planting them too late can mean their roots don’t have enough time to develop before the ground freezes.
• Give your tools a tune-up. When it comes time to put away the backyard tools for the season, don’t just shove them into the garage or shed. Spend a few minutes wiping them down and removing debris and dirt, then apply a light layer of oil to keep them from rusting over the winter. That way they’ll be all set to go again come spring.

Old Man Winter may be on his way, but with a little work now, you can lay the groundwork for a happy, healthy backyard that’s ready to thrive next season. For more backyard tips, visit www.hound-dog.com .

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The nights are getting cooler and the air has that refreshing crisp in it. It is the time for sweaters and light jackets to keep you warm. Once again the seasons are changing and trees are showing their beautiful array of fall colors. Autumn never ceases to amaze me with it spectacular colors that seem to go beyond an artistic pallet. It is a time of harvest and coming together to share the years hard work from our crops and gardens.

Autumn is a beautiful time of year and we should all enjoy it. However, there is still work to be done! A good fall cleanup is perhaps one of the most important steps in preparing your lawn and garden for the spring. In this article I will pass on some very important musts and some time saving tips so you can use and share with others.

Don’t leave the leaves

The leaves are a sight to see on the trees during their color change. But watching them fall to the ground may leave property owners feeling that there is a long road of work ahead of them. Not many people enjoy spending hours and hours of raking leaves and bagging them. But it is an important step in the fall cleanup process because once the snow flies, an unraked layer of leaves will get matted down over your lawn and smother it all winter long. This will result in dead patches and give rodents a cozy home to live in.

*Tip* Instead of waiting for all of the leaves to drop off your trees try mulching small amounts using your mulching lawn mower when you mow your lawn. Doing this weekly will make the work seem lighter when it is time to rake. Plus small amounts of mulched leaves will add nutrients to your soil making your lawn healthier.

Feed the Green

Your lawn is still using energy during the cool nights before winter. And what better way to show your lawn your appreciation for looking its best during the grueling summer then to feed it. Apply a slow release fertilizer to build back up its nutrients and prepare it for the long and cold winter. This is also a very good time to remove all weeds from your lawn as well to give a better start in the spring. Don’t add commercial fertilizer to any other garden plants (except bulbs) or you may spur growth too late in the season.

Compacted? Aerate!

Heavy traffic throughout the summer can cause soil to become compacted. Perforating your lawn with small holes helps reduce compaction and lets water, air and fertilizer get down to the soil, which strengthens the turfs root structure.

*Tip* For smaller yards, a manual aerating tool that removes plugs from the turf while you step should be just fine. If you’ve got a larger yard, consider renting a power aerator or calling your local lawn maintenance company.

Compost and Re-Use

Don’t get rid of all of your fallen leaves they make for attractive mulch in your garden. Collect leaves and put them through a mulching machine (if you don’t have one you can find them at most hardware stores for about $100 – $200) and add them to your garden. You can also use your push lawnmower by running over the leaves and bagging them. Not only does this provide a beautiful mulch but adds vital nutrients to your soil making your plants more vibrant.

*Tip* One way to turn autumn leaves into nutritious compost is to gather them in a big pile surrounded by chicken wire in a corner of yard where they can be left for a year or two to break down into rich crumbly goodness. Don’t compost any plants or leaves that look diseased. Throw them out. You will only contaminate next year’s gardens.

Water your trees?

Water any trees and shrubs that still have their leaves because they are more than likely dry from the past several months of drought (this year may be an exception to the rule). This is especially true of young trees planted less than three years ago and street trees, which endure extra punishment from traffic, pollution, and paving. Though your town may plant street trees in front of your house, it’s up to you to water them when rain is lacking. Leave a hose dripping by the trunk for several hours so the moisture can sink in.

Also, water your evergreens each week that there’s no rain. Rhododendrons and pine trees will continue to lose moisture from their leaves and needles all winter. So help the roots stock up on water now. Wrapping small evergreens with burlap will especially serve to protect them from browsing deer and from harsh winter winds. However, if your trees are near salted winter roads avoid wrapping your trees in burlap. The salt will soak into the burlap causing direct exposure to the host plant. In this case try making burlap screens instead.

*Tip* Don’t plant evergreens this late in the year, but feel free to plant deciduous trees and shrubs once they’ve dropped their leaves and gone dormant. Take advantage of late season sales at your local garden center.

Mushy Annuals

Once the frost hits, it is usually the end of the road for annuals. They can easily be removed by pulling them by the base of the stem. This is also a good opportunity to remove any weeds from your garden and cultivate the soil. You can compost all of the annuals you pulled out…but make sure to watch for diseased plants, just toss them into the trash.

Veggie Garden

Clean out your vegetable garden. Fruits and vegetables left in the garden can decompose all winter long, and provide comfy living for insect eggs. Gross? Not as gross as they’ll be in the spring…well at least you won’t have to mash your potatoes. Now’s the time to get rid of diseased plants, too, but keep them out of the compost pile so the problem doesn’t spread to the rest of your garden next year.

Spring is just around the Corner

Fall is the perfect time to plant spring flowering bulbs like daffodils and tulips. But pay attention to the weather in your area; planting too early can cause bulbs to sprout before winter, and planting them too late can mean their roots don’t have enough time to develop before the ground freezes.

*Tip* Make sure to plant the bulb 2 – 2 1/2 times deeper than the size of the bulb. So if your bulb is a small 1 inch bulb, you would plant the bulb 2 to 2 1/2 inches deep. If your bulb is a larger 3 inch bulb, you will want to plant the bulb 6 to 7 1/2 inches deep.

Get ready for next spring

Give your tools and equipment some love. When it comes time to put away the backyard tools for the season, don’t just shove them into the corner. Spend a few minutes wiping them down and removing debris and dirt, then apply a light layer of oil to keep them from rusting over the winter. That way they’ll be all set to go again come spring. And as for your lawnmower, if you are not going to drain the fuel from the tank and carburetor make sure to add some fuel stabilizer to the gas. Doing this will prevent your gas from going bad and keep the carburetor in good working order.

Fall is here and by applying some of these best practices you’ll be in great shape for the spring…just as long as we make it through the winter.

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