A renegade weed

Author: admin  //  Category: Home Gardening, Tips

Author: Kay

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 10:45 pm (GMT 0)




a big weed ( photo / image / picture from Kay’s Garden )







I found this growing in my flower bed earlier this spring. I had amended the soil with some compost from my work. Our shop is on an old dairy farm, and we pulverize the mounds of manure to use in planting etc.

It was a very nice healthy plant, no bugs, nothing wrong at all, with the exception of being illegal…

It was hard for me to destroy such a pretty plant. Oh well, had to be done.

It grows wild all over in Nebraska. We just don’t pick it, or grow it in our gardens, if we are smart that is…

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Wanted: Like Minded Gardeners To Join Fun Group

Author: admin  //  Category: Home Gardening, Tips
Claytonia virginica

I can think of three things that would really improve my gardening life~

  • The back I had 10 years ago,
  • An endless supply of compost and mulch; and
  • A group of gardening friends who would be willing to grab their pruners, gloves, sloggers and perennial diggers to help each other with projects.
Hepatica

My back will never be the same! I’ve lifted too many Clay and Limestone rocks to have the back I used to have. Now, I try to take the very best care of it and still garden. Lying flat on my back in a neutral position for 15 minutes after every couple of hours of gardening or computing really helps. Ice packs and anti-inflammatory are also my best friends!

As for an endless supply of compost and mulch! I will continue to compost all yard waste, mulch leaves and purchase my favorite go to soil improver for clay soil (Mr Natural Complete Landscape Mix). That’s as close to endless as I can get!

Enemion biternatum

As for the third thing that would improve my gardening life: I’ve been wishing I had a group of gardening friends like Annie/Transplantable Rose has. She and the other Divas Of The Dirt have been helping each other out in their gardens for the last decade.

Here’s what Glinda, a founding Diva, says on their original website:

“Many hands make light work” is an old saying but we’re proving that it’s still a valid concept. A few years ago, we took our artistic and horticultural talents, our muscle power, our varied collections of garden tools, and our Texan ability to shop, and combined all of it to form a landscaping co-op.Since we began working on each other’s garden projects as a team, our individual yards have become more beautiful environments, and we’ve all benefited from the friendships forged through sharing hard work, brilliant inspirations, food & laughter. Some of our meetings have resulted in dramatic garden transformations; sometimes a member was overwhelmed by ongoing maintenance. The Divas have no agenda except to help each other; no laws, just simple guidelines based in courtesy and fairness; no aim but to have fun while we work together. Let us convince you to get out and garden with your friends!

Well, Annie/Glinda, you have convinced me. Now to get this group together!

Tommies on my hillside

In the mean time, I am thankful to have found a group of gardening friends from all over who inspire, encourage, support me every day. You are the best~One might even say, you’re superlative.

xxoogail

PS Cindy, From My Corner of Katy sponsors Three for Thursday every week. She invites you to share any three things at all.

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Food Production Systems DVD Video (Review)

Author: admin  //  Category: Home Gardening, Tips

Recently I received an email asking me to review a video all about backyard food production systems. I was curious so I said sure. I grow a large vegetable garden in the backyard every year and if there were ideas inside this DVD that I could use and incorporate into my garden it might be worthwhile for others who read this blog to learn more about as well.

The video is simply titled Food Production Systems for a Backyard or Small Farm and is about 110 minutes long. Through the video Marjory explains why her family set out to become as self-sustainable as possible and how they’ve sought to accomplish it.  She tells in the video right from the start that what they have tried to do A) isn’t easy and B) they’ve made a lot of mistakes along the way. Because they have experienced it you can learn from the mistakes they have made.

So what has her family done exactly? They’ve installed a significant rain collection system for their water uses, learned about food crops and management, composting, protecting livestock from predators, raised chickens and rabbits as well as a whole array of other subject areas. They have put together some ingenious methods of sustainability like with their rabbit composting system. They raise rabbits as a food supply but also receive the added benefit of their composted manure. Rabbit cages are suspended over hay which eventually becomes compost for the garden. The method she uses for fertilizing her fruit trees is pretty clever too. She puts out water troughs for geese to come bath in underneath the trees. Every now and then she dumps out the messy water underneath the trees which of course is full of geese manure.

The video has many ideas that could be incorporated into a backyard garden even if complete sustainability isn’t your goal. It also comes with a resource disc with PDF files that cover subjects like aquaponics, seed saving, home composting and several others. I do have to caution you though that this video isn’t for everyone. Their goal is to become self-sustainable which means that the animals they raise aren’t necessarily pets and they explain and demonstrate the whole process which may be a little tough for younger folks and those who might be a little squeamish.

Overall I found the video very interesting. We’re frugal and I like the thought of becoming more sustainable through our backyard food production and now I know what to do with those annoying rabbits that continually eat my plants…

…make compost!

Originally written by Dave @ The Home Garden
Not to be reproduced or re-blogged without permission. No feed scraping is permitted.
All Rights Reserved.


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Shrubs for Fall Color (Fall Color Project 2010)

Author: admin  //  Category: Home Gardening, Tips

While I’m not officially wrapping up the Fall Color Project for this year the entries do seem to be slowing down! More and more leaves are finding their way to the ground, hopefully to become mulch or compost as nature intended!

Today’s entry comes from the blog Garden Sense and shares with us the gorgeous colors that fall foliage brings to shrubs. Brilliant barberries, itea, fothergilla, oak leaf hydrangea, chokeberry, and even azaleas fill this post with plenty of autumn wonder.  Go pay a visit to Chris’s post if you haven’t already and enjoy what could be the last of fall’s wondrous foliage!

Thank you to everyone who has participated so far! I’ll be posting the wrap up post before Christmas so if you still have fall colors to share be sure to let me know!

Originally written by Dave @ The Home Garden
Not to be reproduced or re-blogged without permission. No feed scraping is permitted.
All Rights Reserved.


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Designing a Composting System

Author: admin  //  Category: Tips

Designing a Composting System

composting-system.jpg
Designing a composting system isn’t as hard as you might think. There are several things to consider before choosing a system, however, so count on doing a little research and planning before making a decision. The type of compost material and the quantity should factor into your choice as well as the space you have available and whether your composting system needs to be pleasing to the eye or if it will be hidden from view by a fence or vegetation.

Although compost bins can be as small as 2x2x2 feet, the ideal size is between 3x3x3 feet and 5x5x5 feet unless a large scale system is required such as for handling animal manure. In that case, a width large enough to allow the entry of large equipment such as a tractor with an attached bucket and a depth of 6 – 8 feet is desirable. Your compost bin(s) can be located either in the sun or shade, but the moisture loss will be greater in a sunny spot.

When deciding on a composting system, keep in mind that the more the compost is turned, the hotter the temperature will be so the sooner the compost will be ready to use. Some systems are more labor intensive than others. All of them should allow for proper aeration for optimum composting conditions.

3 Different Types of Composting Systems

Let’s go over the three different types of composting systems that require a design and some construction.

1) A fixed single unit is usually made of blocks, bricks, or has a wood frame that’s anchored in the ground. Wire or wood can be used to attach to the wooden frame. Wood can be in the form of 2x4s, 2x6s, slats, and even landscape timbers. It’s best to use wood that’s treated or is naturally resistant to decay such as cedar or redwood. Options for blocking off one end of the bin include bamboo and branches which can be taken down as needed when turning or moving the compost.

2) Portable units such as those made out of wire or those that can be disassembled, can be moved next to the current location and the composting material forked or shoveled into the now empty bin in its new location. Materials that work well for this type of composting system are chicken or galvanized wire, hardware cloth, pallets, a wooden snow fence or any other material that is freestanding and either lightweight or easy to take apart and reassemble in a new location. A simple composter can even be made out of a large, plastic garbage can with holes drilled into it allow air to reach the contents.

3) Among all homemade composting systems, three fixed bins attached to each other in a row are the most efficient. They work especially well for manure or where a lot of material needs to be turned. The first bin is for newly added material, the second bin should be in the midst of composting and the third bin is for compost that’s ready to spread. The content of each bin is moved to the next one when it’s ready. For large amounts of compost material, the bins should be at least four feet high.

For all three types of compost systems, a tarp, wood or metal can be used as a cover to keep out rain, snow and animals. If a tarp is used, a couple of pieces of wood such as furring strips can be attached to the end of the tarp to add weight and make pulling the tarp back in place easier. Simply put the end of the tarp between the two pieces of wood and screw the wood together.

No matter which composting system you decide is right for you, the satisfaction you’ll receive from making your own rich compost for your garden by recycling table scraps and lawn clippings will be well worth the small expense and effort.

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How to clean up flower beds after winter

Author: admin  //  Category: Home Gardening, Tips

As the temperatures warm up in some parts of the country (OK, Atlanteans, I know you just got socked with half a foot of snow yesterday), weeds in the landscape may be the first to signal its time to garden again.  Garden centers are starting to bring their best spring flowers out and dead-looking plants in your landscape are starting to shoot out some green buds.  A quick way to get a little bit of gardening done while temperatures warm up a bit more is to fix up one of your landscape’s flower beds.  You know that mass of brown material by your mailbox or front door; that’s what I’m going to help you fix up.

These Pelargoniums have damage from too many sub-freezing nights.  New growth can be seen emerging from the center of the plant.  Image by Gardenipedia.

These Pelargoniums have damage from too many sub-freezing nights. New growth can be seen emerging from the center of the plant. Image by Gardenipedia.

STEP 1:  CLEAN-UP YOUR ACT

The first step is to clean up the garden bed.  Remove any weeds that may already have emerged, throw out any rocks you see lying around (unless you want them there), clean-up debris, and use your trusty pruning shears to remove all dead growth from plants.  But hold on!  If you see any green on any of the “dead” growth you’re cutting, you may just be pruning dormant branches so be careful.   It is vital that you clean up all the dead growth as this can harbor diseases and insects that may affect the new, green growth emerging from plants.

The Pelargonium cleaned up, notice I left the dead leaves in there.  They will eventually break down and add much needed organic matter into the soil.  Image by Gardenipedia.com

The Pelargonium cleaned up. Notice I left the dead leaves in there. They will eventually break down and add much needed organic matter into the soil. Image by Gardenipedia.com

STEP 2: ADDING THE GOOD STUFF.

Whenever I work in a garden bed; whether its cleaning up or adding a plant or something else, I like to take the opportunity to add compost to the area.  You can add compost that you made yourself or go to your local garden center and buy the stuff in bags.  If your flowers all died in winter, till the compost into the soil to a depth of about one to two feet.  This will give a good growing medium to new plants.  If some of your perennials are still ticking, however, you may want to top dress instead, as tilling the compost into the soil is bound to damage the roots of the plants.  Compost helps add nutrients to the soil, but more importantly, it helps to give the soil a good structure (I’ll be going into this in a future post).

The flower bed with a compost top-dressing.  Make sure not to cover new growth as this may suffocate the crown of the plant, killing it.  Image by Gardenipedia.com

The flower bed with a compost top-dressing. Make sure not to cover new growth as this may suffocate the crown of the plant, killing it. Image by Gardenipedia.com

STEP 3: INDULGE IN A LITTLE SHOPPING SPREE.

This is the time to add the new flowers.  If you’re doing this when it is still cold outside, make sure that the plants you choose can withstand the wide temperature fluctuations of late-winter and early-spring.  I won’t be going into planting specifics in this post as each plant has its own requirements, but you can ask your local garden center for help when you buy the plants.  If your flower bed still has last year’s survivors and they are coming along slowly, you can still indulge in a little shopping by giving them some companions in the new year (assuming that there is still space in the garden bed, you don’t want to suffocate the plants).   The new companions will give a little show while last years plants come back to full force.

I added Osteospermum to the garden bed to take up some of the bigger gaps between some of last year's Pelargonium.  Make sure not to harm the roots of the established plants.  Image by Gardenipedia.com

I added Osteospermum to the garden bed to grow in some of the bigger gaps between some of last year’s Pelargonium. Make sure not to harm the roots of the established plants. Image by Gardenipedia.com

STEP 4: MUCLH AWAY

Add landscape mulch to your beds for a clean look, to help retain moisture in the ground, to add nutrients over time to the ground, and to to control weeds.  Try to stay away from synthetic mulches, such as rubber, as it does not offer much nutritional benefits to plants.  Also, stay away from mulches like Cypress mulch which are made from slow growing trees, pick mulches from tree farms or fast growing tree varieties.  A 1-2″ layer of mulch is generally good.  Be carefull not to suffocate new growth under the mulch.  After your finish muclhing clean up your tools, put yard trash away, and enjoy your refurbished landscape bed.  They should look like winter was never here.

The finished mailbox flower bed.  The Pelargoniums will take over the show in a month or two.  Image by Gardenipedia.com

The finished mailbox flower bed. The Pelargoniums, still barely visible in between newer plants, will take over the show in a month or two. Image by Gardenipedia.com

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask in the comments.

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Maintaining A Compost Heap

Author: admin  //  Category: Home Gardening, Tips

Maintaining A Compost Heap

Many people who maintain gardens have a large amount of organic waste, from grass clippings to leaves and dead plants. Unfortunately, many waste money and time having these wastes transported to a landfill. It isn’t just a waste of good compost; it’s a waste of everything that goes into the process of transporting it (the garbage man’s time, the money you pay for the removal, etc). It is truly a travesty.

All this garbage that people are trying to get rid of can be a better supplement for your garden than any fertilizer or chemical. If you properly facilitate the decomposition of all of the garbage, it will alter chemically until it is in such a state that it can be nothing but beneficial nutrition for other plants. Therefore you can turn all the stuff you would have thrown away into top grade fertilizer for your garden.

Usually compost is maintained in a pile somewhere in your backyard. Usually the thought of a compost heap brings disturbing images to ones mind; heaps of rotten garbage emitting a horrid odor. However, if you maintain it correctly you’ll be able to produce great compost without producing an offensive odor. When I first began my compost pile in an effort to improve environmental health, I made several major errors. These included preventing the pile from the oxygen it truly needed, and keeping it to dry. It ended up decomposing in a very non-beneficial way, and producing an odor so foul that I had government agents knocking at my door.

When you are choosing your spot where you will be putting all of these materials, you should aim for a higher square footage. Having a really deep pile of compost is not a good idea, because generally the deeper sections won’t be exposed to anything that is required for the process to work. It is better to spread it all out over a large area. If you have a shed or a tool shack of some sort, it is a possibility to spread it over the roof (with boards to keep it from falling off, of course). I have seen this done several times, and it helps keep the pile out of the way while still maintaining a large square footage.

A compost heap can consist of any organic garbage from your yard, garden or kitchen. This includes leaves, grass, any leftover food that won’t be eaten, or newspaper (no more than a fifth of your pile should consist of newspaper, due to it having a harder time composting with the rest of the materials). Usually if you have a barrel devoted to storing all of these things, it will fill up within several weeks. It is quite easy to obtain compost, but the hard part truly comes in getting it to compost.

After you have begun to get a large assortment of materials in your compost heap, you should moisten the whole pile. This encourages the process of composting. Also chop every element of the pile into the smallest pieces possible. As the materials start to compress and meld together as they decompose, frequently head outside and aerate the pile. You can use a shovel to mix it all up, or an aeration tool to poke dozens of tiny holes into it. Doing this will increase the oxygen flow to each part of the pile, and oxygen is required for any decomposition to take place.

If maintaining a compost pile sounds like something that would interest you, start considering the different placement options. The hardest part about maintaining a pile is choosing a spot that provides enough square footage without intruding on the rest of your yard or garden. While usually you can prevent the horrible odors that most people associate with compost heaps, it’s still not a pleasant thing to have to look at whenever you go for a walk in your garden.

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