Be sure to keep walkways, driveways, rooftops clear

BY CHARLES DAVIS
cedavis@greenbaypressgazette.com

Children aren’t the only ones hoping to get on a good list for the holidays. Whether you’ve been naughty or nice, you should expect a visit from an area snow remover.

Signing up early for services can get you preferred treatment when your driveway starts to look like the frozen tundra. And if you dare take on Mother Nature by yourself, here are a few tips to keep you safe.

Early bird

Homeowners can sign up for one-time snow removal or seasonal service, said Matthew Kispert, owner of Sawyer’s Tree Service in De Pere. Seasonal subscribers can get Kispert to come out every time it snows at least one inch. They also can get a 10 percent discount, which can save $5 to $10 each time it snows.

“The best thing to do is plan ahead and get on our list before the snow storm,” he said.

Those on the seasonal list also get served before those who call the day of the storm.

Clear the path

Kispert comes equipped with snowblowers, and he shovels off driveways and sidewalks leading up to the home. He even takes care of edges leading to garages and can shovel off your porch.

“Salt is optional, but even the ones that don’t want it, if there’s bad spots, we put it in for free,” he said. A bad spot consists of ice patches on the sidewalk.

“Once in a while, people will have us clear a path for a dog,” he said.

Snow stretch

If the snow isn’t bad enough to call out professionals, be equipped for some taxing activity, said Jason Pienta, owner of Heartland Construction & Services in Green Bay.

“Just stretch out before you go shovel,” he said. “If you can’t grab your toes standing up, I don’t think you should be shoveling snow.”

Necessary tools include at least one good shovel, a snowblower if you can afford it and rock salt, Kispert said.

Each year, people report heart attacks while shoveling, so take breaks if you do it yourself. “We’re prepared to stand the wet, the cold, the windy conditions,” Kispert said. “We have the right equipment for it.”

Call of duty

You don’t have to be a lazy bum to call on snow removers. Many customers simply didn’t plan ahead or couldn’t “get the kids out of bed to shovel snow,” Kispert said. Other clients live out of town or aren’t physically able to do it.

Up on the rooftop

Refusing to remove the snow at all will have you feeling ho-hum during the holidays, Pienta said. Snow left on the roof can create ice in the gutters — known as ice dams — and work its way back into your shingles. When the ice melts, it can rain inside your home. “It’s a pretty big thing,” he said.

It’s also not a good idea to let snow pack down in your driveway. “It can damage the underside of your car if you drive it through snow,” Kispert said.

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When George Bailey first appears in the Christmas classic, It’s a Wonderful Life, he and a bunch of other boys are sliding down a snowy hill on their snow shovels (I guess their parents couldn’t afford sleds or toboggans). That’s about the only fun use to which snow shovels have ever been put, as far as I know.

For with that one exception, snow shovels signify nothing but drudgery. Worse yet, to those who suffer from bad backs, snow shovels are nothing less than instruments of torture. The human frame simply isn’t designed for extended periods of snow shoveling. It was with these thoughts in mind that I recently tested three different Ames True Temper snow shovels:

1. An Avalanche Ergo Plus ergonomic snow shovel
2. A Snow Blazer wide-grip snow shovel
3. A Penguin VersaGrip snow pusher

Snow pushers would seem, at first glance, to be a wonderful alternative for people with bad backs. With their wide, curved blades, snow pushers act like human-powered plows. Although you can toss snow with them in a pinch, that’s not really what snow pushers are designed for: the shape of their blades makes lifting and flinging snow with them somewhat more difficult. Instead, as their name suggests, the idea with snow pushers is to push the snow out of the way.

I must say, though, that as someone who lives in a region that receives a lot of snow, using snow pushers has never made much sense to me. For where do you push the snow so that it will be “out of the way?” If you push it off your driveway onto the edge of an adjacent lawn area, you’ll create a wall of snow lining the driveway. Where I live, that wall of snow will soon become a wall of ice. So while pushing the snow onto the lawn may work for the first storm, where do you push the snow for the rest of the winter? And if your response is, “Well, just push the snow from that first snowstorm way out into the middle of the lawn, so it will be out of the way,” I have two objections:

1. Doing so may damage your lawn
2. It seems like a lot of work to me!

But those of you who, unlike me, live in regions with minimal snowfall may be interested in the Penguin VersaGrip snow pusher. The plastic (poly) blade is 24″ wide X 11.5″ long and its edge is protected by a steel wear strip. Durability is further enhanced by a steel core shaft. But it’s the wide-grip handle of the product that gives the VersaGrip its name. The handle of this snow pusher is designed so as to accommodate two gloved hands and a variety of grips. For a picture, click the image above right to open my mini-photo gallery.

If, like me, you have no use for snow pushers but do find the wide-grip handle of the VersaGrip appealing, you may be interested in another Ames True Temper product: the Snow Blazer snow shovel. It boasts the same unusually-shaped handle as the VersaGrip, along with the same steel core shaft. The blade is also plastic and protected by a steel wear strip.

But the blade on the Snow Blazer snow shovel is 19″ wide X 13.5 inches long, giving it the shape of the more typical snow shovel. However, it differs from the common flat-blade snow shovels in that the sides and back are taller, creating more of a “scoop.” Because of their scoop-like blades, the Snow Blazer snow shovels could double as snow pushers in a pinch. Yet it’s still easy to toss snow with them. I think of the Snow Blazer as a nice compromise between snow pushers and standard snow shovels.

The Avalanche Ergo Plus ergonomic snow shovel is a much different product, despite also having a plastic blade with more of a “scoop” than do flat-blade snow shovels. Yes, as you can see from the picture (above right), the Avalanche is one of those funny ergonomic snow shovels with the bent shaft.

The edge of the Avalanche’s blade is protected not by steel, but by a nylon wear strip, so that you can shovel snow off decks without worrying about damaging the wood. If you don’t have a deck, the wear strip will at least extend the life of the blade a bit. Of course, you’ll wear down the wear strip in no time if you try to break ice with these snow shovels.

On the subject of breaking ice, by the way, let me reveal a little secret. Despite the skepticism one hears about breaking ice with plastic snow shovels, I’ve been doing it for many years and have had very little breakage (on the snow shovels, I mean, not the ice!). If you’d rather not chance it, though, just use ice melt products as an alternative.

But first and foremost, these ergonomic snow shovels are about ease of use — and avoiding back injuries. No steel core shaft here: this ergonomic snow shovel has an aluminum shaft, making it as light as possible. Reducing the weight of a snow shovel is one way to minimize the stress shoveling imposes on your back.

More importantly, the bent shaft is supposed to allow you to keep your back straight while shoveling, as you can get a good grip on the shaft without having to reach down too far. Nonetheless, when shopping for such ergonomic snow shovels, pick them up first and go through the motions of shoveling, to see if they’re the right length for you. The one I tested wasn’t quite long enough for someone of my height, meaning the temptation to bend my back was still there — thus defeating the purpose behind the ergonomic design.

If you truly dislike plastic blades and seek an alternative that’s still lightweight, another Ames True Temper ergonomic snow shovel (sometimes advertised as a “snow pusher,” it’s really a snow shovel), the Aluminum Ergo Articblast, bears an aluminum blade.

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Preparing for Winter Storms and Blizzards

Blizzards are the most dangerous of winter storms. They produce high winds and heavy snow throughout much of the United States from December to March.

They are most common in the northern Great Plains states — South Dakota is sometimes called “the Blizzard State” — but they also occur as far south as Texas and as far east as Maine.

Many blizzard-related deaths involve people who die of hypothermia in their cars, on the street or in wilderness areas. Sadly, most of these deaths could have been avoided with proper preparation. Blizzards also cause countless cases of frostbite, as well as damage to unsupported structures and homes.

Winter Storm Watches and Warnings
If you live in a snow-prone area, pay close attention to weather forecasts and listen for watches and warnings like these:

WINTER STORM WATCH: Severe winter conditions, such as heavy snow or ice, are possible within the next day or two. Prepare now!

WINTER STORM WARNING: Severe winter conditions have begun or are about to begin in your area. Seek shelter!

BLIZZARD WARNING : Snow and strong winds will combine to produce a blinding snow (near zero visibility), deep drifts, and life-threatening wind chill. Seek refuge immediately!

WINTER WEATHER ADVISORY: Winter weather conditions are expected and may be hazardous, especially for motorists.

FROST/FREEZE WARNING : Below freezing temperatures are expected and may cause significant damage to plants, crops, or fruit trees. In areas unaccustomed to freezing temperatures, people who have homes without heat need to take added precautions.

You can check the current weather forecast for your area.

Plan Ahead for Winter Storms

Play it safe by preparing ahead for winter storms and blizzards. Be sure to winterize your manufactured home by following all the tips in our winterizing section.

Remember, these storms can cause loss of electricity, heat, and telephone service and can trap you in your home for a few days. It’s important to have ample supplies on hand in your home:

• Flashlight and extra batteries.
• Battery-powered NOAA weather radio and portable radio to receive emergency information. These may be your only links to the outside.
• Extra food and bottled water. High energy food, such as dried fruit or candy, and canned food requiring no cooking or refrigeration is best.
• Manual can opener.
• Extra medicine and baby items.
• First-aid supplies.
• Heating fuel. Fuel carriers may not reach you for days after a severe winter storm.
• Back-up heating source, such as a fireplace, wood stove, space heater, etc.
• Fire extinguisher and smoke detector.
• Brush up on your fire safety knowledge by visiting our fire safety section.

Be sure to carry a survival kit in your car that contains:

• Cell phone
• Blankets/sleeping bags
• Flashlight with extra batteries
• Knife
• High calorie, non-perishable food
• A can and waterproof matches to melt snow for drinking water
• Sand or cat litter
• Shovel
• Windshield scraper
• Tool kit
• Tow rope
• Jumper cables
• Water container
• Compass
• Road maps
• Extra winter clothes and boots

Also, keep your vehicle’s gas tank full in case you get stranded and to keep the fuel line from freezing.

How to Dress for Winter Weather:

• Wear several layers of loose-fitting, lightweight, warm clothing rather than one layer of heavy clothing.
• Remove a layer or two if necessary to avoid overheating, perspiration, and subsequent chill.
• Make sure outer garments are tightly woven and water-repellent.
• Wear mittens — they are warmer than gloves.
• Wear a hat.
• Cover your mouth with a scarf to protect your lungs from extremely cold air.
• Wear sturdy, waterproof boots in snow or flooding conditions.

If You’re Away From Home When the Storm Hits:

If you’re outside:

• Find a shelter out of the wind. Try to stay dry and cover all exposed parts of your body.
• If you can’t find shelter, prepare a lean-to, windbreak or snow cave for protection from the wind. Build a fire for heat and to attract attention. Place rocks around the fire to absorb and reflect heat.
• Don’t eat snow – it will lower your body temperature. Melt the snow first.

If you’re in a car or truck:

• Pull off the road and turn on your hazard lights.
• Stay inside your vehicle. It’s easy to become disoriented in the wind and snow. Do not set out on foot unless you see a building close by where you know you can take shelter.
• Run the motor about ten minutes each hour for heat.
• Open the window a crack to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning.
• Make sure the exhaust pipe is not blocked by snow.
• Exercise frequently to keep blood circulating and to keep warm, but don’t overexert.
• Huddle with other passengers and use your coat as a blanket.
• In extreme cold, use road maps, seat covers, floor mats, newspapers or extra clothing for covering–anything to provide additional insulation and warmth.

Make yourself visible to rescuers:

• Turn on your dome light at night, but only when running the engine. You don’t want to wear down your battery.
• Tie a distress flag (preferably red) to your antenna or window.
• Raise the hood to indicate trouble after snow stops falling.

Once the blizzard is over, you may need to leave your vehicle and proceed on foot. Follow the road if possible. If you need to walk across open country, use distant points as landmarks to help maintain your sense of direction.

If you’re in your home or a building:

• Stay inside.
• If you must travel, do so during daylight. Don’t travel alone. Stay on main roads, and tell others about your route and schedule.
• Conserve fuel, if necessary, by keeping your house cooler than normal. Temporarily shut off heat to less-used rooms.
• When using alternative heat from a fireplace, wood stove, or space heater, use fire safeguards and properly ventilate.
• If using kerosene heaters, maintain ventilation to avoid buildup of toxic fumes. Keep heaters at least three feet from flammable objects. Refuel kerosene heaters outside.

If there’s no heat:

• Close off unneeded rooms.
• Stuff towels or rags in cracks under doors.
• Cover windows at night.
• Stay nourished:
  • Eat food to provide your body with energy so it can produce its own heat.
  • Keep your body replenished with fluids to prevent dehydration.

After the Blizzard has Passed:

• Look for any damage that may have occurred to your home and make sure water pipes are functioning. Check out the freezing pipes information on this site for help. If there are no other problems, wait for streets and roads to be plowed before you drive anywhere.
• Check on neighbors to see if they need help.
• Pace yourself and rest frequently when shoveling snow — don’t overexert. Shoveling causes many heart attacks, especially in very cold temperatures.

With a little planning and know-how, you can make this winter a safe and warm one for you and your family.

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That load of snow in your driveway may be getting to you, but before you put your snowblower into action, make sure you’re really using it properly and safely. You probably have a healthy respect for your lawn mower and weed-whacker, and their ability to do real harm. Don’t think that your snowblower is more innocuous just because it throws the fluffy stuff around instead of slicing plants
away from the earth.

First rule: Don’t drink alcohol and operate a snowblower. Any time you dull your reaction time and impair your judgment, the last thing you want to do is operate any kind of machinery that could severely injure you or someone else.

Second, be careful where you aim that thing. If the snow is shooting toward your house, you could be looking at damage to your siding and windows. If you aren’t exactly sure where Patches the Cat ran off to, get her into the house first, unless you want to risk stunning her and burying her under a bunch of snow. Remember, not all snow is light and fluffy. Also, if there are heavier objects in the snow, like rocks or ice chunks, they will be flung farther, and perhaps faster, than snow. So, thoroughly inspect the area before you get out the snowblower. In fact, if you can survey the area before the snow covers the ground, so much the better.

Third, watch your fingers and other important parts you might need later. The American Academy of Orthopedic Surgeons reports that several thousand people are treated each year in emergency rooms thanks to incidents with snowblowers and snowthrowers. Two-thirds of snowblower injuries involve the fingers, and of all the various consumer home and yard products, snowblowers are one of the top causes of finger amputations. Most injuries occur when operators attempt to clear the auger or the discharge chute with their hands. Use a stick or broom handle to clear away debris in the machine. Remember that the impeller blades may still be rotating for a time even after the machine is turned off. You should wait AT LEAST five seconds after turning the machine off before trying to clear any jams, even though you’ll be using a stick. You don’t want spinning blades to grab onto something you’re holding tightly.

Fourth, make sure you leave all the safety devices, like shields, guards and switches, on the machine. Customize your car, not your snowblower. For that matter, protect your own body by wearing gloves, long pants, goggles and boots. For one thing, it’s cold out there. For another, you want to keep your body parts intact, remember?

Fifth, if you have a gas-powered snowblower, fuel it up before you start using it. Never add fuel while it’s running or still hot from recent use. If it’s an electrical snowblower, make sure the cord doesn’t get tangled or snagged in any moving parts; electrocution is dangerous, not invigorating. Don’t touch the engine cowling while it’s still hot.

Sixth, keep the kids away from the snowblower. Around the age of 15, it’s probably OK to start introducing them to safe use of a snowblower. And make sure you supervise them until you’re sure they know what they are doing.

Seventh, don’t leave the machine unattended without shutting it off first. You don’t want the snowblower going off on its own, and you don’t want kids or pets to get caught up in it when you’re out of sight or out of earshot.

Finally (and maybe this should have been rule number one, but it should be obvious), read the user’s manual for your snowblower before you use it. No one’s going to respect you more because you figured it out on your own, particularly if the result is a couple missing fingers and a family pet that’s still reeling from that hunk of ice you flung at it.

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1. Step 1

   Make your shovel more user-friendly by adding floor wax to it before starting on your ice-packed driveway. The slickness will help the shovel glide through snow and ice and prevent snow from adhering to the shovel.

2. Step 2

   Apply rock salt to your driveway for an inexpensive way to help melt away the ice.

3. Step 3

   Use calcium chloride pellets to melt ice at lower temperatures than rock salt.

4. Step 4

   Choose potassium chloride when it’s not as frigid outdoors and temperatures are above 15 degrees F. It is less harmful than some of its fellow deicers.

5. Step 5

   Remove ice using another kind of deicing product known as magnesium chloride. It removes ice at extremely low temperatures and is better for the environment because it releases less chloride than other salt deicers. Additionally, it is less harmful to plants, concrete and other surfaces than some of the other options.

6. Step 6

   Melt away ice using a hand-held propane torch. These multifunctional units are also good for killing weeds and insects, so it will prove useful all year round.

7. Step 7

   Eliminate driveway ice in the luxury of your own home

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Snow removal injuries

One of the more common causes of back injuries during the winter months is snow removal. Using the wrong body mechanics when shoveling snow can put undue stress on the spine and lead to muscle strains, falls, or more serious back injuries.

The following snow removal tips can help you to avoid low back injuries and pain during the snowy winter season.

Pick the right snow shovel
An ergonomic snow shovel can help take some of the effort out of your snow removal chores. A shovel with a curved handle or an adjustable handle length will minimize painful bending, requiring you to bend your knees only slightly and arch your back very slightly while keeping the shovel blade on the ground. In addition, a small, lightweight, plastic blade helps reduce the amount of weight that you are moving.

Warm up thoroughly
Cold, tight muscles are more prone to injury than warmed up, flexible muscles. Do your back a favor by warming up for five to ten minutes before shoveling or any strenuous activity. Get your blood moving with a brisk walk, marching in place, or another full-body activity. Then, stretch your low back and hamstrings (the large muscles in the back of the thigh) with some gentle stretching exercises. Limber up your arms and shoulders with a body hug.

Pace yourself during snow removal
Removing small amounts of snow frequently is less strenuous than removing a large pile at once. If possible, removing snow over a period of days will lessen the strain on the back and arms. In deep snow, remove a few inches at a time, rather than attempting to shovel the full depth at once. When shoveling, take a break for a minute or two every 10-15 minutes or if you feel overworked at any point. Use this opportunity to stretch your arms, shoulders, and back to keep them warm and flexible.

Use ergonomic lifting techniques
Whenever possible, push the snow to one side rather than lifting it. When lifting the snow shovel is necessary, make sure to use ergonomic lifting techniques:

• Always face towards the object you intend to lift
• Bend at the hips, not the low back, and push the chest out, pointing forward. Then, bend your knees and lift with your leg muscles, keeping your back straight
• Keep your loads light and do not lift an object that is too heavy for you
• If you must lift a shovel full, grip the shovel with one hand as close to the blade as comfortably possible and the other hand on the handle (handle and arm length will vary the technique)
• Avoid twisting the back to move your object to its new location – always pivot your whole body to face the new direction
• Keep the heaviest part of the object close to your body at your center of gravity
• Walk to the new location to deposit the item rather than reaching or tossing

When gripping the shovel, keep your hands about 12 inches apart to provide greater stability and minimize the chances of injuring your low back.

Keep your feet on the ground
Slippery conditions while shoveling can lead to slipping and/or falls and strains that can injure your back. Shoes or boots with good treads will help to minimize injuries from slipping. Spreading sand, rock salt, or kitty litter on your sidewalk or driveway will increase traction and reduce the likelihood of slipping on the ice.

If possible, stop shoveling – use a snow blower instead. When used correctly, a snow blower can put less stress on your low back than shoveling. Avoid stressing your back by using the power of your legs to push the snow blower while keeping your back straight and knees bent.

Be a good neighbor
Elderly residents or residents with health problems that prevent them from shoveling snow may need help with their snow removal. Using your new knowledge about ergonomic snow shoveling, you can help your neighbors remain active and mobile during the winter months and help prevent them from sustaining an injury from icy walkways or trying to remove the snow themselves. If low back pain, recent back injury, or another back condition makes shoveling a hazardous task for you, ask for help from your neighbors or a snow removal service rather than attempting to remove the snow yourself.

These tips can help to make snow removal less of a strain on your low back. Keeping these guidelines in mind during the winter season will lessen the chances of a new back injury or worsening your low back pain while shoveling, and hopefully make your winter a healthier and more enjoyable experience.

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Proper Leaf Cleanup

Trees are beautiful because of their leaves, but it is inevitable that leaves fall. Historically, homeowners have raked up the leaves, bagged them and thrown them out with the garbage. Now, that is no longer possible.

We need to remember that eons ago, no one raked leaves. Before people stepped in. leaves fell to the forest floor where they mixed with the twigs and were stirred up by small animals. They provided natural mulch in the winter and then broke down, enriching the soil and fertilizing the trees the rest of the year. We need to take a cue from nature and use leaves in our yards as much as possible.

Different parts of your landscape have different needs. You can use leaves all over your yard, but there are some inappropriate places to put them as well.

If you are trying to grow grass on your lawn, allowing the leaves to remain where they fall is not practical. The weight of the wet leaves can suffocate grass and moisture will build up under the leaves and cause a host of fungal diseases. If you have a mulching lawn mower, use it to cut the grass and chop the leaves at the same time. But, if you end up with more than one-fourth to three-eights inch on your lawn, it’s time to go to Plan B.

Put the bagger on your lawn mower and collect the chopped leaves and grass clippings. Then, place them around your shrubs for winterizing mulch. In the past, I didn’t like to recommend using leaves as mulch because they tended to compress and mat down, but when they’re chopped, they tend to loft up slightly. This allows air circulation and prevents them from compacting as quickly into an imperious layer that limits water and air from reaching plant roots. Chopped leaves will also biodegrade more rapidly.

If you mulch your shrubs and still have leaves left, put a four inch layer over your garden and spade it under. This will provide nutrients for next growing season. You can do the same in flowerbeds.

For areas of ground cover, don’t try to remove all leaves. Allowing some to work down into the soil will add nutrients to the soil in these beds as well. Now, don’t allow the entire tree to shed all its leaves on one bed of ground cover. The plants may suffocate and dies. For these areas, I like to use an electric or gas powered vacuum-type leaf remover and take most of the leaves from the bed without having to continually stomp through it or damage plants with a rake.

If you still have some leaves left, add them to your compost pile. Don’t forget to turn it. If you have children, you might want to leave one big pile of leaves in the yard until it really gets cold. Leaf piles, as you may remember, are great for jumping in, throwing around and just generally having a lot of fun with.

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After following the steps for preparation of the job adjust the water pressure of your electric pressure washer or gas pressure washer between 1500 to 1800 psi. This should be sufficient to power wash a deck.

* You should work in pendular strokes, as if you were doing low swing with a golf club.
* Keep the jet in motion at all times to avoid marking the surface where you start and stop. If a stain does not come off on the first try, keep passing over it until it dissolves.
* Don’t let the cleaning solution sit for more than 10 to 15 minutes or it will dry and leave residue.
* Rinse with plenty of fresh water from your cold water powerwasher.
* Let your deck dry for 24 hours before applying the sealant.

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